WHERE IN THE WORLD?
Does it really matter, when the world clock is ticking down to a few precious moments? You might be in Casablanca, Paris, Tibet, Rome...or even at home. When the clock stops ticking, any place could be your last! Armed only with sunblocker and a keen sense of urgency, Meg and I flew off to the tropical Mayan Riviera to study firsthand the incredible countdown to eternity predicted by the indigenous inhabitants of Mezzo-America.We Arrived in Cancun the afternoon of June 23rd, the eve of Inti-Raymi, the Inca feast celebrating the re-birth of the Sun which happens to be my birthday as well. The trip was auspiciously scheduled to coincide with the magical mid-summer solstice. Although not directly related to my exhaustive research of the Inca civilization, the culture of the Mayans is truly fascinating. Immediately upon touch-down on the Cancun tarmac, I sensed that my research would bear much fruit and that Meg and I would gain access to some very profound answers to the eschatalogical enigma of the Mayan calendar. According to the "Popul Vuh," the sacred scriptures of the ancient Mayans, there will be a major world-wide catastrophe occurring on or about December 23, 2012. This translates to 4 Ahau 3 Kankin, the last entry recorded on the Mayan calendar; the day that time will end.
"WHEN THE WORLD STARTS RUNNING DOWN..."
No sense worrying about the inevitable, so relax and enjoy the ride! Cancun, Mexico is a veritable Paradise, encompassing all the pleasures of earthly life. You name it, Cancun has it. So, while I'm off doing some otherworldly research, Meg goes on an expedition of her own...to the best shopping in the New World. No wonder the conquistadors came to Mexico, there are so many shops with such incredible variety. Also, the food is very plentiful and, if you are staying at an "all-inclusive" resort, very reasonable indeed. We stayed at the ROYAL SOLARIS CARIBE, a rather eccentric combination of the two sides of Mexican life. One of the hotel towers is ultra modern, very noisy and full of activity, while the second tower is more tranquil and built on an older conception of Latin American architecture with graceful arches and winding outside corridors. We stayed in this gentler side of the ROYAL SOLARIS and had a wonderful time! Our suggestion is to take plenty of sunblock, especially in the summer. The Mexican sun is brutal and unforgiving, with little shade in Cancun to shield the skin from the frequent 10+ U.V. index days. I thought my dark, Mediterranean skin was immune from the harmful rays of the Sun, but even I fried to a deep lobster red in a matter of hours. Meg found a spray that Coppertone puts out that is very convenient and REALLY does the job, so she was spared the burn and ultimate peeling that I had to endure. "HEY AMIGO!"Being a shopping "aficionado," Meg gravitated to all the flea markets and malls. Even I had to admit that an afternoon at the mall is probably healthy after a hot morning on the beach, since there is ample air conditioning at KUKULCAN PLAZA and some other venues. The major caveat is simple: know the value of what you buy and don't be intimidated by the friendly salespeople. "Hey Amigo!" is the chant du jour at all Mexican stores. Sure they are happy to see you! But, be forewarned, don't think that their voracious smile means that you are among friends. Mexicans have rather large families and the need for money to fund them is understandable. The rule of thumb is this: whatever the salesperson wants for the item, offer them HALF (or less). Use a little common sense in dealing with these people. KNOW THE VALUE before you negotiate the price. Don't be surprised if you find the same item for some ridiculously low price at the airport shops on the way home. This is the subtle way the Mexicans make laughing stocks of Americans, by offering them the BEST price when it's too late. If you don't want to buy something, but want to be polite to the salesperson, tell them that you have one just like it at home. Also, feel free to use the following tip: When an overzealous salesperson confronts me, I turn the table on them by trying to sell THEM something. Just bring some sales material along, such as an insurance prospectus, and SELL, SELL, SELL! This will get rid of them in no time flat. Actually, the variety of wares available is quite extensive, so be prepared to find something that you want to buy...then negotiate like crazy to get the lowest price. Meg bought some kerchiefs that were finely made at a really good price. I found that most souvenir items were universally produced, which means that all they did was mark "Cancun" on the item. I had visions of going to the beach back home in New Jersey to find the same tee-shirt design on another individual who bought what he thought was a "Cape May" original. Wherever you go in Mexico, you will find Havana cigars. If you find this exotic and want to indulge in some forbidden smokes, just be aware of the fact that these cigars were probably made in Mexico by Cuban craftsmen. Since Cuba is just a short boat ride away from Cancun, you can find a wide assortment of Faux Havanas, as well as some genuine ones. Just beware that U.S. Customs will confiscate them from you if you try to "smuggle" them in. Yes, SMUGGLE. So, if you are a "Parrot Head," like myself, and think that it's really neat to sneak Havanas back home like Jimmy Buffett, just be aware that you are breaking the law! Unless you are a gifted songwriter or need some jail time, either smoke them in Mexico, or leave them there. Getting to wherever you're going is half the fun. The bus system in Cancun is really cheap and easy. Cheap, because it's a flat 5 peso fare from any place you get on. Easy, because Kukulcan Boulevard is the ONLY thoroughfare in Cancun, so you can't get lost unless you're a little "borracho" (drunk). Our suggestion is to get lots of 5 and 10 peso coins when you turn your greenbacks into Mexican money. The bus drivers are notorious for not caring to give change. So, unless you really want to practice your Spanish, just give the driver exact change. This will make the trip "muy suave," and will go a long way in maintaining world peace. The bus goes everywhere, so unless you want to "negotiate" a taxi, take the bus. Oh yes, the taxis are OK, too, but it's strongly advisable to agree on the fare with the taxi driver BEFORE getting into the cab. Otherwise, it might cost you a king's ransom to get out of the cab at your destination. Also, please be aware that everyone in Cancun is working some sort of "deal." So, for example, if you ask a taxi driver for a good restaurant, don't be surprised if he takes you to a place where he's getting a kickback. Our suggestion is to talk to other tourists like yourself and get first-hand recommendations. Most fellow travelers will be happy to provide honest and often candid evaluations.
"TAKE THE BEST FROM WHAT'S STILL AROUND"
In a couple of days, you will get your bearings in and around Cancun. By sampling the food and recreational activities, you will find your own water-level, so to speak. Meg and I went on a day trip to Cozumel during our stay in Cancun. We found out that everything is negotiable, but that doing a little research can save you a bundle of cash. For example, we wanted to visit the island of Cozumel without all the added frills like snorkeling or diving. The resident tour guide at the hotel was only too happy to book us for what he called "Cozumel Express," or only the cost of transportation. Not knowing that Cozumel is just a hop, skip and jump down the main coastal highway, we paid roughly $95 U.S. for the tour. Not that it wasn't a nice day out, but a round trip taxi ride to Playa Del Carmen and the ferry out to Cozumel would have cost only $70 U.S., a savings of what amounted to the bounteous lunch and shopping we did that day. Had we done more research, we would have also saved ourselves the long wait at the pier in Playa Del Carmen for the return ride on the scheduled tour van. By the way, it was reported by one tourist who took the snorkeling package that there is a lot of lag time involved in hooking up with this option. So, by the time the tour started snorkeling it was almost time to come back home. Again, "Caveat Emptor" with the tours. If possible, nail down the exact time duration of any activity you wish to participate in. This will eliminate a lot of disappointment.While we were in Cozumel, Meg and I had lunch in a delightful restaurant, "El Abuelo Gerardo," which translates into "My Grandfather Gerald's." located at 21 Tenth Avenue, just two or three blocks from the waterfront, it is just the place where we could get great Mexican food as well as pick up some folklore by chit-chatting with the Cozumel natives. Jorge, the head waiter, is fluent in English and able to translate any craving you might have into one of the delicious menu items. I wanted chicken tacitos and was not disappointed by the heaping plate served. The food is seasoned in what can only be described as Cuban-Mex, with the delicate taste of Old Havana mingled with the robust beans and rice, not to mention the ample supply of guacamole and chips served as the complimentary appetizer. Wash this down with a tankard of Mexican beer and you're in heaven. Meg and I ate to our hearts' content for under $20 U.S., with no room for one of the restaurant's delectable desserts. On the walls are old photos of Cozumel the way it was back a century ago. This was an education in itself, and you could almost envision Ernest Hemingway stopping at "El Abuelo Gerardo" for a cold beer after one of his famous fishing excursions off the coast of Cozumel. During our meal, two strolling guitarists stopped in and serenaded Meg with a liltingly romantic song, full of passion and sincerity. After all, the musicians of Cozumel inherited the traditions of the true Mariachis, so why should we expect anything but great impromptu music performed by masters of song. After lunch, I asked Jorge about the Mayan prophecies of doom and about their calendar. He offered to sell me a Mayan calendar, but didn't really seem concerned with the end of days. He did however tell me that folklore told of the destruction of Cozumel by a giant tidal wave which might come at any moment. So, this being told, I didn't press him about the Mayan story when his own was even more impending! All the more reason to grab for all the gusto you can today and not wait any longer to experience Paradise.
THIS WILL BE YOUR RUINATION: Trip to Chichen Itza
No vacation in Cancun is truly complete without going to the Mayan archeological sites at Chichen Itza. Sure, there are Mayan ruins right in the middle of Cancun, but they are a joke (literally). You wouldn't go anywhere but Rome to see the Vatican, so there is only one way to get a bonafide understanding of Mayan history, and that's to go to Chichen Itza. The day trip will set you back less than $100 U.S. and it's truly an amazing journey back in time. But, it's also a long bus trip into the desolate heart of the Yucatan. So, for those who distain a hot, steamy jungle climate and hours of walking around the site, it may be better to go on the less arduous trip to Tulum. Nevertheless, Chichen Itza is what I can best describe as the "Machu Picchu" of the Yucatan. What better place to research the end of the Mayan calendar. The tour of the ruins at Chichen Itza takes about two hours and the native Mayan guides are excellent. You will learn about the Spanish conquest of Mexico and the intellectually advanced civilization they tried to wipe off the face of the Earth. The ancient calendar and the complex numbering system that the Mayans worked with is truly awesome and incomprehensible. How is it that the indians of Mezzo-America were so far superior both scientifically and technologically to the European conquerers? This is a question for the ages and you won't find the answer at Chichen Itza, but you will receive a greater appreciation of Pre-Columbian civilizations! The Chichen Itza bookstore has some very interesting books that you can purchase and take home. I bought a copy of the sacred Mayan book, the "Popul Vuh," on a previous trip and it still intrigues me. I asked the Mayan guide about the end of days but, again, all he did was offer to sell me a copy of the calendar and lecture me about the Mayan creation myth. Then, like a bolt out of the blue, it hit me right between the eyes: The end will be the beginning...and the beginning will describe the end. All world scriptures state the same, don't they? Life is a cycle; and destruction will be followed by re-newed life. Anyone who's read the Judaic book of Ecclesiastes hears about this, as well as those who hold the Bhagavad Gita sacred. "There is nothing new under the Sun." Could it be that the Earth is entering another cycle of destruction, perhaps another "Ice Age?" But, this is a question for another day! After leaving Chichen Itza, we ate a late lunch and had a folkloric floor show at a Mayan restaurant. The food may not have been that authentic, but the singing and dancing were enjoyable and gave another glimpse into Mayan tradition. The bus ride back to Cancun was long, but the day was an overwhelming success!
NEXT INSTALLMENT: SWEAT OF THE SUN - Traveling the Inca road in Ecuador in search of EL DORADO!
SEND E-MAIL INQUIRIES OR COMMENTS: alvoto@aol.com
Does it really matter, when the world clock is ticking down to a few precious moments? You might be in Casablanca, Paris, Tibet, Rome...or even at home. When the clock stops ticking, any place could be your last! Armed only with sunblocker and a keen sense of urgency, Meg and I flew off to the tropical Mayan Riviera to study firsthand the incredible countdown to eternity predicted by the indigenous inhabitants of Mezzo-America.We Arrived in Cancun the afternoon of June 23rd, the eve of Inti-Raymi, the Inca feast celebrating the re-birth of the Sun which happens to be my birthday as well. The trip was auspiciously scheduled to coincide with the magical mid-summer solstice. Although not directly related to my exhaustive research of the Inca civilization, the culture of the Mayans is truly fascinating. Immediately upon touch-down on the Cancun tarmac, I sensed that my research would bear much fruit and that Meg and I would gain access to some very profound answers to the eschatalogical enigma of the Mayan calendar. According to the "Popul Vuh," the sacred scriptures of the ancient Mayans, there will be a major world-wide catastrophe occurring on or about December 23, 2012. This translates to 4 Ahau 3 Kankin, the last entry recorded on the Mayan calendar; the day that time will end.
"WHEN THE WORLD STARTS RUNNING DOWN..."
No sense worrying about the inevitable, so relax and enjoy the ride! Cancun, Mexico is a veritable Paradise, encompassing all the pleasures of earthly life. You name it, Cancun has it. So, while I'm off doing some otherworldly research, Meg goes on an expedition of her own...to the best shopping in the New World. No wonder the conquistadors came to Mexico, there are so many shops with such incredible variety. Also, the food is very plentiful and, if you are staying at an "all-inclusive" resort, very reasonable indeed. We stayed at the ROYAL SOLARIS CARIBE, a rather eccentric combination of the two sides of Mexican life. One of the hotel towers is ultra modern, very noisy and full of activity, while the second tower is more tranquil and built on an older conception of Latin American architecture with graceful arches and winding outside corridors. We stayed in this gentler side of the ROYAL SOLARIS and had a wonderful time! Our suggestion is to take plenty of sunblock, especially in the summer. The Mexican sun is brutal and unforgiving, with little shade in Cancun to shield the skin from the frequent 10+ U.V. index days. I thought my dark, Mediterranean skin was immune from the harmful rays of the Sun, but even I fried to a deep lobster red in a matter of hours. Meg found a spray that Coppertone puts out that is very convenient and REALLY does the job, so she was spared the burn and ultimate peeling that I had to endure. "HEY AMIGO!"Being a shopping "aficionado," Meg gravitated to all the flea markets and malls. Even I had to admit that an afternoon at the mall is probably healthy after a hot morning on the beach, since there is ample air conditioning at KUKULCAN PLAZA and some other venues. The major caveat is simple: know the value of what you buy and don't be intimidated by the friendly salespeople. "Hey Amigo!" is the chant du jour at all Mexican stores. Sure they are happy to see you! But, be forewarned, don't think that their voracious smile means that you are among friends. Mexicans have rather large families and the need for money to fund them is understandable. The rule of thumb is this: whatever the salesperson wants for the item, offer them HALF (or less). Use a little common sense in dealing with these people. KNOW THE VALUE before you negotiate the price. Don't be surprised if you find the same item for some ridiculously low price at the airport shops on the way home. This is the subtle way the Mexicans make laughing stocks of Americans, by offering them the BEST price when it's too late. If you don't want to buy something, but want to be polite to the salesperson, tell them that you have one just like it at home. Also, feel free to use the following tip: When an overzealous salesperson confronts me, I turn the table on them by trying to sell THEM something. Just bring some sales material along, such as an insurance prospectus, and SELL, SELL, SELL! This will get rid of them in no time flat. Actually, the variety of wares available is quite extensive, so be prepared to find something that you want to buy...then negotiate like crazy to get the lowest price. Meg bought some kerchiefs that were finely made at a really good price. I found that most souvenir items were universally produced, which means that all they did was mark "Cancun" on the item. I had visions of going to the beach back home in New Jersey to find the same tee-shirt design on another individual who bought what he thought was a "Cape May" original. Wherever you go in Mexico, you will find Havana cigars. If you find this exotic and want to indulge in some forbidden smokes, just be aware of the fact that these cigars were probably made in Mexico by Cuban craftsmen. Since Cuba is just a short boat ride away from Cancun, you can find a wide assortment of Faux Havanas, as well as some genuine ones. Just beware that U.S. Customs will confiscate them from you if you try to "smuggle" them in. Yes, SMUGGLE. So, if you are a "Parrot Head," like myself, and think that it's really neat to sneak Havanas back home like Jimmy Buffett, just be aware that you are breaking the law! Unless you are a gifted songwriter or need some jail time, either smoke them in Mexico, or leave them there. Getting to wherever you're going is half the fun. The bus system in Cancun is really cheap and easy. Cheap, because it's a flat 5 peso fare from any place you get on. Easy, because Kukulcan Boulevard is the ONLY thoroughfare in Cancun, so you can't get lost unless you're a little "borracho" (drunk). Our suggestion is to get lots of 5 and 10 peso coins when you turn your greenbacks into Mexican money. The bus drivers are notorious for not caring to give change. So, unless you really want to practice your Spanish, just give the driver exact change. This will make the trip "muy suave," and will go a long way in maintaining world peace. The bus goes everywhere, so unless you want to "negotiate" a taxi, take the bus. Oh yes, the taxis are OK, too, but it's strongly advisable to agree on the fare with the taxi driver BEFORE getting into the cab. Otherwise, it might cost you a king's ransom to get out of the cab at your destination. Also, please be aware that everyone in Cancun is working some sort of "deal." So, for example, if you ask a taxi driver for a good restaurant, don't be surprised if he takes you to a place where he's getting a kickback. Our suggestion is to talk to other tourists like yourself and get first-hand recommendations. Most fellow travelers will be happy to provide honest and often candid evaluations.
"TAKE THE BEST FROM WHAT'S STILL AROUND"
In a couple of days, you will get your bearings in and around Cancun. By sampling the food and recreational activities, you will find your own water-level, so to speak. Meg and I went on a day trip to Cozumel during our stay in Cancun. We found out that everything is negotiable, but that doing a little research can save you a bundle of cash. For example, we wanted to visit the island of Cozumel without all the added frills like snorkeling or diving. The resident tour guide at the hotel was only too happy to book us for what he called "Cozumel Express," or only the cost of transportation. Not knowing that Cozumel is just a hop, skip and jump down the main coastal highway, we paid roughly $95 U.S. for the tour. Not that it wasn't a nice day out, but a round trip taxi ride to Playa Del Carmen and the ferry out to Cozumel would have cost only $70 U.S., a savings of what amounted to the bounteous lunch and shopping we did that day. Had we done more research, we would have also saved ourselves the long wait at the pier in Playa Del Carmen for the return ride on the scheduled tour van. By the way, it was reported by one tourist who took the snorkeling package that there is a lot of lag time involved in hooking up with this option. So, by the time the tour started snorkeling it was almost time to come back home. Again, "Caveat Emptor" with the tours. If possible, nail down the exact time duration of any activity you wish to participate in. This will eliminate a lot of disappointment.While we were in Cozumel, Meg and I had lunch in a delightful restaurant, "El Abuelo Gerardo," which translates into "My Grandfather Gerald's." located at 21 Tenth Avenue, just two or three blocks from the waterfront, it is just the place where we could get great Mexican food as well as pick up some folklore by chit-chatting with the Cozumel natives. Jorge, the head waiter, is fluent in English and able to translate any craving you might have into one of the delicious menu items. I wanted chicken tacitos and was not disappointed by the heaping plate served. The food is seasoned in what can only be described as Cuban-Mex, with the delicate taste of Old Havana mingled with the robust beans and rice, not to mention the ample supply of guacamole and chips served as the complimentary appetizer. Wash this down with a tankard of Mexican beer and you're in heaven. Meg and I ate to our hearts' content for under $20 U.S., with no room for one of the restaurant's delectable desserts. On the walls are old photos of Cozumel the way it was back a century ago. This was an education in itself, and you could almost envision Ernest Hemingway stopping at "El Abuelo Gerardo" for a cold beer after one of his famous fishing excursions off the coast of Cozumel. During our meal, two strolling guitarists stopped in and serenaded Meg with a liltingly romantic song, full of passion and sincerity. After all, the musicians of Cozumel inherited the traditions of the true Mariachis, so why should we expect anything but great impromptu music performed by masters of song. After lunch, I asked Jorge about the Mayan prophecies of doom and about their calendar. He offered to sell me a Mayan calendar, but didn't really seem concerned with the end of days. He did however tell me that folklore told of the destruction of Cozumel by a giant tidal wave which might come at any moment. So, this being told, I didn't press him about the Mayan story when his own was even more impending! All the more reason to grab for all the gusto you can today and not wait any longer to experience Paradise.
THIS WILL BE YOUR RUINATION: Trip to Chichen Itza
No vacation in Cancun is truly complete without going to the Mayan archeological sites at Chichen Itza. Sure, there are Mayan ruins right in the middle of Cancun, but they are a joke (literally). You wouldn't go anywhere but Rome to see the Vatican, so there is only one way to get a bonafide understanding of Mayan history, and that's to go to Chichen Itza. The day trip will set you back less than $100 U.S. and it's truly an amazing journey back in time. But, it's also a long bus trip into the desolate heart of the Yucatan. So, for those who distain a hot, steamy jungle climate and hours of walking around the site, it may be better to go on the less arduous trip to Tulum. Nevertheless, Chichen Itza is what I can best describe as the "Machu Picchu" of the Yucatan. What better place to research the end of the Mayan calendar. The tour of the ruins at Chichen Itza takes about two hours and the native Mayan guides are excellent. You will learn about the Spanish conquest of Mexico and the intellectually advanced civilization they tried to wipe off the face of the Earth. The ancient calendar and the complex numbering system that the Mayans worked with is truly awesome and incomprehensible. How is it that the indians of Mezzo-America were so far superior both scientifically and technologically to the European conquerers? This is a question for the ages and you won't find the answer at Chichen Itza, but you will receive a greater appreciation of Pre-Columbian civilizations! The Chichen Itza bookstore has some very interesting books that you can purchase and take home. I bought a copy of the sacred Mayan book, the "Popul Vuh," on a previous trip and it still intrigues me. I asked the Mayan guide about the end of days but, again, all he did was offer to sell me a copy of the calendar and lecture me about the Mayan creation myth. Then, like a bolt out of the blue, it hit me right between the eyes: The end will be the beginning...and the beginning will describe the end. All world scriptures state the same, don't they? Life is a cycle; and destruction will be followed by re-newed life. Anyone who's read the Judaic book of Ecclesiastes hears about this, as well as those who hold the Bhagavad Gita sacred. "There is nothing new under the Sun." Could it be that the Earth is entering another cycle of destruction, perhaps another "Ice Age?" But, this is a question for another day! After leaving Chichen Itza, we ate a late lunch and had a folkloric floor show at a Mayan restaurant. The food may not have been that authentic, but the singing and dancing were enjoyable and gave another glimpse into Mayan tradition. The bus ride back to Cancun was long, but the day was an overwhelming success!
NEXT INSTALLMENT: SWEAT OF THE SUN - Traveling the Inca road in Ecuador in search of EL DORADO!
SEND E-MAIL INQUIRIES OR COMMENTS: alvoto@aol.com
