A Spring Day in Dublin Landing in Dublin, Ireland, we immediately headed for the CIE Tours counter at the far end of the airport baggage carousel area to get a taxi to take us to the Camden Court Hotel. CIE is a leader in Irish tourism, and we were able to book a very attractive package that let us pay in advance using US Dollars instead of risking the rising valuation of the Euro. The package included transfers to and from the airport, which made the 45 minute trip to our hotel both easy and carefree. Our driver, Patrick, was exceptionally brilliant and gave us a running commentary as we traveled through Dublin. At the hotel, we gave the reception clerk our prepaid voucher and were up in the room within five minutes. To my delight, the hotel didn't require a credit card to be applied to the stay. Also, since our package included an Irish breakfast daily, we didn't spend any money whatsoever at the hotel. It was already 11 o'clock in the morning, so we hit the streets to do as much sightseeing as possible. Immediately outside on the corner is the Bleeding Horse Pub, where I stopped to get a taste of a Dublin-poured glass of Guinness draught. This is one of the oldest pubs in Dublin, and was frequented by many noted literary greats of Ireland, including James Joyce, who occupied a booth in the back of the pub where he wrote about life in Dublin. The first picture we took in Dublin is the one of me in front of a billboard advertising Book Month 2009. Each year, a noted Irish author is featured and this year's book choice is Bram Stoker's Dracula. Stoker, who attended Trinity College, wrote this book without ever visiting Transylvania. Stoker researched all material used in the book from volumes found in libraries. Viking Dublin Before the invasion of the Vikings, Dublin City was a backwater village. In fact, the Vikings gave Dublin its name, which in Norse means "Black Pool". Dublin was established as a trading center, which even included the exportation of the native Irish peoples as slaves to other areas of Europe. The exhibit "Dublinia," adjacent to Christ Church Cathedral, is very informative in teaching the early history of Dublin. It wasn't until the Norman conquest of Ireland in the 12th century that the Irish peoples first gained a limited self determination. Down through the ages, the people of Ireland have been governed by foreign powers, including the British, who finally handed over control of Ireland in 1922. Indeed, most of the historic sites of Dublin hearken back to British control of Ireland. Trinity College and Saint Patrick's Cathedral are still Anglican. Even the most famous Irish exports, Guinness stout and Jameson whiskey, are owned by British families. The largest monument in Dublin, The Wellington Testimonial, honors the Duke, a native-born Dubliner who, after being honored by the British Crown, is quoted as saying "Just because someone is born in a stable, doesn't make him a horse," in reference to his Irish roots. But, like any true-born Dubliner, after the victory at Waterloo where he defeated Napoleon's army, he ordered kegs of Guinness stout be brought onto the battlefield for the celebration of his troops.
Trinity College and the Book of Kells Since we only had a couple of days to visit Dublin, we concentrated on the most historic and literary venues. Trinity College satisfied both aspects. Throughout the Christian world, the Book of Kells is perhaps the most noted manuscript. Created in Ireland by four Celtic monks during the 9th century, the four gospels were reproduced in Latin and Illuminated on calf vellum before being bound. The Trinity College Library also contains the Brian Boru harp, named after the famed High King of Ireland. It is the oldest surviving wire-strung frame harp in existence and is considered the official symbol of Ireland. The Long Room of the College contains the most famous volumes in the English language, and is a must-see on any visit of Dublin.
Drinking It All In A whole day can be spent touring the exhibits at either the Guinness Storehouse or the Old Jameson Distillery. The Irish take their drinking very seriously, so you can imagine the excitement of touring the factory where Guinness Stout is brewed. It took us about four hours to just walk through the exhibits which cover every aspect of the brewing of beer. Also, the exhibits on the famous Guinness advertisements contain ads from almost every country on the globe. The highlight of the tour is being taken to the observation deck on top, where you can sample a "Perfect Pint of the Black Stuff" while getting a panoramic view of the entire city of Dublin. The serious side of Guinness are the many philanthropic activities of the Guinness family. At one time, every mother in Dublin wished that her daughter married a Guinness employee; such were the benefits of working for the family. At the Old Jameson Distillery, which is no longer the distillery of the famous whiskey, the entire history of Irish whiskey production is displayed in depth. Of course, the highlight of the tour is the whiskey tasting, where Jameson is compared to both Scotch and American products. After a few rounds, you will agree that Jameson is the best whiskey on the planet!
What follows is perhaps the most famous recipe in Dublin. In almost every restaurant in Dublin, there is at least one dish made with Guinness beer. You can't escape a visit to a pub without being offered a pint, so it's quite logical that it will find its way into the Irish Cuisine.
Guinness Corned Beef and Cabbage
4 pounds corned beef brisket
2 heads of cabbage
1 cup brown sugar
1 (12 fluid ounce) can or bottle Guinness
Directions:
1 Preheat oven to 300 degrees F (150 degrees C). Rinse the beef completely and pat dry.
2 Place the brisket on rack in a roasting pan or Dutch oven. Rub the brown sugar on the corned beef to coat entire beef, including the bottom. Pour the bottle of Guinness around, and gently over the beef to wet the sugar.
3 Cover, and place in preheated oven. Bake for 2 1/2 hours. Allow to rest 5 minutes before slicing.
During the last hour, you may put the cabbage in the roasting pan as well, along with new potatoes, onion, carrots, etc. You may feel free to add a pint more of Guinness (for the cook) :-)
Sliante!
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