Hope Springs Eternal in the City of Poets, Scholars and Storytellers

A Spring Day in Dublin Landing in Dublin, Ireland, we immediately headed for the CIE Tours counter at the far end of the airport baggage carousel area to get a taxi to take us to the Camden Court Hotel. CIE is a leader in Irish tourism, and we were able to book a very attractive package that let us pay in advance using US Dollars instead of risking the rising valuation of the Euro. The package included transfers to and from the airport, which made the 45 minute trip to our hotel both easy and carefree. Our driver, Patrick, was exceptionally brilliant and gave us a running commentary as we traveled through Dublin. At the hotel, we gave the reception clerk our prepaid voucher and were up in the room within five minutes. To my delight, the hotel didn't require a credit card to be applied to the stay. Also, since our package included an Irish breakfast daily, we didn't spend any money whatsoever at the hotel. It was already 11 o'clock in the morning, so we hit the streets to do as much sightseeing as possible. Immediately outside on the corner is the Bleeding Horse Pub, where I stopped to get a taste of a Dublin-poured glass of Guinness draught. This is one of the oldest pubs in Dublin, and was frequented by many noted literary greats of Ireland, including James Joyce, who occupied a booth in the back of the pub where he wrote about life in Dublin. The first picture we took in Dublin is the one of me in front of a billboard advertising Book Month 2009. Each year, a noted Irish author is featured and this year's book choice is Bram Stoker's Dracula. Stoker, who attended Trinity College, wrote this book without ever visiting Transylvania. Stoker researched all material used in the book from volumes found in libraries.

Viking Dublin Before the invasion of the Vikings, Dublin City was a backwater village. In fact, the Vikings gave Dublin its name, which in Norse means "Black Pool". Dublin was established as a trading center, which even included the exportation of the native Irish peoples as slaves to other areas of Europe. The exhibit "Dublinia," adjacent to Christ Church Cathedral, is very informative in teaching the early history of Dublin. It wasn't until the Norman conquest of Ireland in the 12th century that the Irish peoples first gained a limited self determination. Down through the ages, the people of Ireland have been governed by foreign powers, including the British, who finally handed over control of Ireland in 1922. Indeed, most of the historic sites of Dublin hearken back to British control of Ireland. Trinity College and Saint Patrick's Cathedral are still Anglican. Even the most famous Irish exports, Guinness stout and Jameson whiskey, are owned by British families. The largest monument in Dublin, The Wellington Testimonial, honors the Duke, a native-born Dubliner who, after being honored by the British Crown, is quoted as saying "Just because someone is born in a stable, doesn't make him a horse," in reference to his Irish roots. But, like any true-born Dubliner, after the victory at Waterloo where he defeated Napoleon's army, he ordered kegs of Guinness stout be brought onto the battlefield for the celebration of his troops.

Trinity College and the Book of Kells Since we only had a couple of days to visit Dublin, we concentrated on the most historic and literary venues. Trinity College satisfied both aspects. Throughout the Christian world, the Book of Kells is perhaps the most noted manuscript. Created in Ireland by four Celtic monks during the 9th century, the four gospels were reproduced in Latin and Illuminated on calf vellum before being bound. The Trinity College Library also contains the Brian Boru harp, named after the famed High King of Ireland. It is the oldest surviving wire-strung frame harp in existence and is considered the official symbol of Ireland. The Long Room of the College contains the most famous volumes in the English language, and is a must-see on any visit of Dublin.

Drinking It All In A whole day can be spent touring the exhibits at either the Guinness Storehouse or the Old Jameson Distillery. The Irish take their drinking very seriously, so you can imagine the excitement of touring the factory where Guinness Stout is brewed. It took us about four hours to just walk through the exhibits which cover every aspect of the brewing of beer. Also, the exhibits on the famous Guinness advertisements contain ads from almost every country on the globe. The highlight of the tour is being taken to the observation deck on top, where you can sample a "Perfect Pint of the Black Stuff" while getting a panoramic view of the entire city of Dublin. The serious side of Guinness are the many philanthropic activities of the Guinness family. At one time, every mother in Dublin wished that her daughter married a Guinness employee; such were the benefits of working for the family. At the Old Jameson Distillery, which is no longer the distillery of the famous whiskey, the entire history of Irish whiskey production is displayed in depth. Of course, the highlight of the tour is the whiskey tasting, where Jameson is compared to both Scotch and American products. After a few rounds, you will agree that Jameson is the best whiskey on the planet!

What follows is perhaps the most famous recipe in Dublin. In almost every restaurant in Dublin, there is at least one dish made with Guinness beer. You can't escape a visit to a pub without being offered a pint, so it's quite logical that it will find its way into the Irish Cuisine.

Guinness Corned Beef and Cabbage
4 pounds corned beef brisket
2 heads of cabbage
1 cup brown sugar
1 (12 fluid ounce) can or bottle Guinness

Directions:
1 Preheat oven to 300 degrees F (150 degrees C). Rinse the beef completely and pat dry.
2 Place the brisket on rack in a roasting pan or Dutch oven. Rub the brown sugar on the corned beef to coat entire beef, including the bottom. Pour the bottle of Guinness around, and gently over the beef to wet the sugar.
3 Cover, and place in preheated oven. Bake for 2 1/2 hours. Allow to rest 5 minutes before slicing.

During the last hour, you may put the cabbage in the roasting pan as well, along with new potatoes, onion, carrots, etc. You may feel free to add a pint more of Guinness (for the cook) :-)

Sliante!

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Metaphysics Aboard The 159R Bus

Sanity starts early with NJ Transit When it comes to commuting to work, it's not the norm to find like-minded fellow passengers to engage in conversation. At 6:15 a.m., most folks prefer to sink low in their seat and even take in an extra forty winks before dealing with their work routine. So, to find a group of convivial bus mates taking the early express into NYC at such an early hour is serendipity, to say the least. To start, I'd like to give a "shout out" to my small group of fellow commuters: Mitch, who, like myself, works in the publishing industry; Sheila, a bond market reporter; Rita, a chemist, who, at 60 years, has more vitality and beauty than the average 30-something; Leroy, a purveyor of fine wines and spirits; Paula, an urban archaeologist; Vivian, a nursing administrator; Carolina, who always has such a lovely smile; Debbie, who works for a company that is a leader in the maintenance of outstanding NYC buildings; Dot and Val, who are married and travel together on the bus as far as the Light Rail station at Port Imperial. Dot, a bookkeeper at a food emporium, continues her commute with me on the West Side Avenue train to Jersey City, while Val, an accountant, continues on into the City. Dot has overcome great obstacles in her life, and is a source of inspiration to those she comes in contact with due to her many accomplishments. Each of my bus mates offers something uniquely special at our daily meetings. Also, we are fortunate to have a good-natured bus driver, Fernando, who keeps to the schedule and allows us to arrive on time.

Living in the Moment Many agree that Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. If you consider fellowship as being "the meat that nourishes our soul," then it's fair to say that sharing positive thoughts before the start of the work day is also important. As Eckhart Tolle mentions in his book The Power of Now, it's important to realize that while our use of time has a practical aspect, most people are lost in time, usually dwelling in the past or future, and are only peripherally aware of the present moment, or the "Now". On the 159R bus, however, each one of us is fully engaged in the present, able to share a few minutes of ourself with the rest. Indeed, our daily meeting can be compared to the monastic prayer service of Lauds, as we most definitely are a community of souls beginning the day, in the pre-dawn hours, searching for meaning and harmony in life. We often take turns lifting each other up and lending support to those who need a gentle word of encouragement. Other times, we rejoice in the beauty of life and the great possibilities that each new day brings. Some of my greatest moments of inspiration have come during this daily meeting; and, I believe that many seeds were planted that have already bloomed into miracles!

The Beauty of NOW As the bus continues its route down Gorge Road, the bus driver turns off the overhead lights in the cabin. A gentle darkness enfolds us, as we gaze out the windows to behold a truly lovely scene: the skyline of Manhattan, with many glistening lights, illuminated from behind by the colorful hues of the not-yet-risen sun! I have often compared this vision to the "Amen" at the end of a prayer, and confirmation that we are all given many other such visions during the day which we often overlook. The glistening lights of pre-dawn also remind me that each of us has the power to merge our talents together to become "A Thousand Points of Light". I truly believe that each of us carries this hope with us to our individual workplace; I know that I do!

Variations on a Theme All too soon, our bus arrives at Port Imperial, where I exit to catch the train to Jersey City. I use these moments to contemplate the phrase from the Bhagavad Gita: "Witness the Diversity, but understand the Unity." Each one of us brings our own special talents with us each day. Some of these talents lay dormant, beaten down by the trials of day-to-day living. The truth is often clouded by needless pressures we actually inflict on ourselves. If we understood the truth, we would manifest our talents constantly, which is the true meaning of "Living in the Now". When I began my life in Metaphysics over twenty years ago, one of my first mentors was Marianne Williamson. In her book, A Return to Love, there is a wonderful chapter on "Work". If each one of us envisioned our job, our office and our coworkers, as our "ministry," we could sanctify our workplace and share our talents openly without worry. Why worry? After all, we are all variations on a theme; and this theme is the great At-one-ment. We are all on different paths in life, each one with different spiritual talents. By sharing our talents, we can indeed do miracles. Our smile, our energy and our spirit, empower us and permit us to truly be the light of the world. Each one of us has our unique place, our unique value to the whole. Without each one of us, the light would become much dimmer.

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Book Fair On The Equator

September 1, 2008 - Babahoyo, Ecuador

When I heard that the Latin American Travel Writer's Book Fair would be held in Ecuador this year, I just had to go. This is a first for La Republica del Ecuador, and comes just months from the publication of my first novel. My good friend, Jaime Huerta, a renowned Latin American author, was the co-chair for this year's gathering, so this made the trip doubly important for me. Jaime's first novel, Amigo del Pueblo, a book about the struggle to maintain democracy in the Third World, won the Bolivar Book Award for political non-fiction in 2006. Since then, the name of Huerta has been required reading in almost every Andean country, including his native Colombia.

As an aspiring travel author, the timing couldn't be better, coming over the U.S. Labor Day weekend. Also, the locale was Babahoyo, the capital of Ecuador's Los Rios Province, just north of the seacoast city of Guayaquil. With direct service from Newark Airport, I was able to arrive in Guayaquil early on Saturday morning and meet Jaime at Simon Bolivar Airport. It was good to see my old friend, and we immediately headed to Babahoyo, directly up the Guayas River, on his small pleasure craft. Jaime owns a restaurant in Babahoyo, the Chifa China, which specializes in both Asian and Ecuadorian cuisine. Upon arrival at his home, Jaime's first request was for me to make a platter of lasagna, which was my specialty at Señor Queso, a restaurant I previously owned in Cuenca, a city high up in the Andes. The signature entree was a lasagna dish I created in honor of a past president of Ecuador by the name of Velasco Ibarra, who had the nickname "El Flaquito" (The skinny one) because he was as thin as a rail. See my blog, On the Road to El Dorado for the recipe.

We ate a hearty lunch of the lasagna, along with a pitcher of Pilsener, the premier Ecuadorian beer. The Book Fair didn't start until 8 pm, so Jaime and I went to the Babahoyo Library, where he signed copies of his book for admiring children. This was probably the last comfortable weekend in Babahoyo, which, being on the coast of Ecuador, enjoys moderate temperatures from May through August. Starting in September, the rainy season begins, with high temps and unbearable humidity. The 76-degrees of this afternoon proved ideal, and the walk from Jaime's house to the library was delightful.

The Book Fair was held under a tent along the banks of Rio Babahoyo, with a lush buffet of tipical Ecuadorian cuisine and other Andean specialites. Since Jaime lived for a time in Peru, there was a never-ending flow of Pisco Sours distributed prior to the opening. Also, since the major ingredient is the juice of the Key Lime, it was also a tribute to Ernest Hemingway, the famous American author who had a home in Key West, Florida. In fact, I consider the meeting of travel writers to be akin to the gathering depicted in Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises. When you get a group of writers together, anything can, and does, happen. It was great meeting fellow writers and exchanging ideas for travel books. I also needed the support of fellow scribes in gathering a head of steam for the final stages of my own book. Sometimes, the ending of a project is more difficult than the beginning!

I met authors from as far away as Buenos Aires, Argentina, where the season will soon change to summer. As a traveler, it's important to realize that there can be such a thing as the "Endless Summer." Returning back home to my garret on the New Jersey Palisades, I await the start of Autumn, and once again picking up quill and dipping it into luxurious black ink.

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Get There FAST and Take It SLO

Natasha and Natalie resurface on California's Central Coast. The call came in the middle of the night. It was Natalie's voice on the line. After more than four months, her voice was non-apologetic, but her charm always has a way of insinuating itself into my psyche. She was calling from San Luis Obispo, where she was attending the International Todesvermittler Convention at California Polytechnic University. Meg and I were also scheduled to be in San Luis Obispo (SLO) for the convention, so Natalie must have seen my name on the delegate listing. As a metaphysician, the practice of a Todesvermittler has always been interesting to me, and has been refined since "death mediation" first became public knowledge with the challenge, and later prosecution and conviction of Dr. Jack Kevorkian during the late 1990s. Ever since her days working for NASA in Washington, DC, Natalie Ivanova has been deeply involved with the cause of Euthanasia: providing a means of ending life in a painless manner. In the practice of modern metaphysics, theTodesvermittler facilitates the soul's transcendence of the earthly plane and the return to the spiritual plane. I was pleased to learn that both Natalie and Natasha would be in San Luis Obispo during our stay, and we made plans to have dinner at Big Sky Cafe the second night of the convention.

Downtown Association Farmer's Market The SLO Downtown Association sponsors the weekly Farmer's Market held each Thursday evening along Higuera Street. Many restaurants have booths, offering everything from chicken, ribs and western favorites, to Mexican, Asian and Italian cuisine. Many local farms are also represented, offering the best in fruits and vegetables. Since we landed at the airport early that afternoon, Meg and I had ample time to pay a visit to the mission church of San Luis Obispo de Tolosa and amble over to the Farmer's Market, just a couple blocks east. Almost everyone in SLO attends this weekly event, so it wasn't long before Meg and I were met by Natalie chowing down on some ribs from Mo's Smokehouse BBQ. The conference started that morning at Cal Poly, but I had to work late the night before, so Natalie filled me in on the first day's seminar topics and workshops. Since Meg wasn't taking part, Natalie also gave her a rundown of the local shopping opportunities. I purchased a sausage and pepper sandwich from a vendor and an Oatmeal Stout from the SLO Brewing Company, savoring every morsel of the onions piled high on the bun.

Unity in Diversity If anything can be said of San Luis Obispo, it's the fact that there is such unity and cohesiveness in a truly diverse population. If tolerance has a hometown, it must be SLO, where almost every ethnic group is represented, and a large gay population has gained the respect of the community at large. Natalie took us over to the booth of GALA, the Gay and Lesbian Alliance, where Natasha was busy handing out informational brochures and answering questions. Natalie would have also liked to help out at the booth, but she wanted to remain free to show Meg and I around town. Natalie, who freelances in the US defense industry, travels most of the time. Natasha, on the other hand has opted to put down roots in SLO and work in the library at Cal Poly. Natasha Petrova, a native of St. Petersburg, Russia, worked as an information analyst in the Kremlin. She met Natalie on a field trip in the Ukraine, and the two of them immediately bonded.

In Metaphysics, we learn to suspend judgment. It's not the package that counts; the CONTENT is most important. Another way is saying "Never judge a book by it's cover." We Baby Boomers are moving into our "golden" years. In my own life, I passed up on some things that I had been conditioned to shun, either because I was taught it was "morally questionable," or "unhealthy," or not "accepted by society." I must admit that during the past few months, I have begun to realize that doing the things I WANT to do is the most important thing to do in life. Society teaches us to crave a nice, trim body, with the assumption that it shows we are powerful, or successful people. "Dress for Success," we are told; so, we must sport trendy threads to adorn our trim, neat and "healthy" bodies. But, a lesson to be learned from Pop Culture is that a nice "package" often camouflages the fact that there is little CONTENT inside some otherwise attractive people. Many of the nicest people are those society considers to be unacceptable, either because they don't maintain a "fashion" sense, or because they are ground down to a nub by day-to-day living and use "comfort foods" to ease the pain of existence. As the old world collapses around us, we begin to trust our inner selves, and the beauty of our spiritual being. We begin to understand the old Buddhist saying that "The body is only the horse that our soul rides upon."

There is a woman in my writer's group who is in her 70's and writes poetry. Her poems are honest and come from her heart, talking about pain, happiness, regret, fulfillment...the whole gamut of life. She recently self-published a book of her poetry, and often shares her new stuff when we get together. One of her recent poems talks about doing all the things that we once shunned because we were conditioned to reject "pleasure" and our own happiness. We were conditioned to deprive ourselves, and to "sacrifice" our own happiness so that others can be served. Then comes the day when we get THE MESSAGE: that life is to ENJOY, and that we have to be JOYFUL so that we can SHARE our happiness with others. As a metaphysician and life coach, I studied all the major religions of the world. I grew up in the Church and spent a lot of my time volunteering and trying to help other people. But, the mistake I made was trying to "save" others from the pain in life, while I took upon myself a load of pain and suffering. Looking back, I really didn't help anybody or any situation. I should have spent more time taking care of myself, so that I could travel the path of happiness and follow my bliss. Teaching others how to be happy is more important than handing them something on a silver platter, which they never completely appreciate and often really don't value. Now, I'm spending more time on MYSELF. Also, I honor the path that others walk, even when it differs from mine. To paraphrase the Bhagavad Gita, we must respect the diversity of life, while also understanding the unity. The Old Ways are collapsing, and the world is a much different (and tolerant) place than the one we were brought into over 50 years ago.

"Pismo Beach and all the Clams you can eat" We took Bugs Bunny's advice and drove over to Pismo Beach, where you can in fact find the freshest Steamers at Splash Cafe. Pismo is a beach town similar to those along the New Jersey coast. In fact, the only difference is that California has the most lovely ocean sunsets. We took a bucket of food out to the pier, where the late day breeze felt good after the heat of the day. Just south of Pismo, the monarch butterflies congregated on their Spring migration south to Mexico. The sound of Leslie Gore singing "California Nights" lilted ever so gently from one of the bars that dot the boardwalk. Sung by a Jersey girl, I thought the timing was appropriate for the occasion.

Pismo Clam Chowder Recipe:

INGREDIENTS:

4 DOZEN Soft-shelled Steamer Clams

1/4 CUP Shredded Salt Pork

1/2 CUP Chopped Onions

2 tbsp. Flour

1 1/2 CUPS Peeled, diced raw potatoes

1 1/2 CUPS Light Cream

Cayenne pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS:
Wash and scrub clams well. Barely cover with cold water in large pot and bring to a boil. Skim. Simmer for 10 minutes. Drain clams, reserving broth. Discard shells, necks and black thread of clams. Separate hard membrane from soft stomach and place each in separate bowls of cold water.

Slowly fry pork until crisp. Remove pieces and save for garnish. Saute onions in fat until tender. Stir in flour and cook over low heat a few minutes. Add clam broth, chopped membranes and potatoes. Simmer 30 minutes. Add cream, clam stomach and pepper. Garnish with crisp pork pieces. Serves six people.

Surfer's Paradise Surfers congregate nightly at the local Pismo bars, but the locals will tell you that the best of the best surf Morro Bay, a fishing town 10 miles north. It was getting late, so we drove Natalie and Natasha back to San Luis Obispo. Meg and I headed north to Morro Bay, ending the perfect day on the golden Central Coast of California.

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Prague: Gothic Grandeur, and a bit of Glasnost

Unlocking Secrets in the "City of 100 Spires" Known for it's intrigue and cultural brilliance throughout history, Prague was the first stop on my quest for information on perhaps the world's oldest manuscript, The Delomelanicon. Most literary scholars agree that the manuscript, whose purported author is Lucifer (The Devil), never physically existed. But, either through divination or mystical revelation, there did arise the publication of De Umbrarum Regis Novum Portis (The Nine Doors to the Kingdom of Shadows), written by Giordano Bruno, a 16th century philosopher and cleric who was born in Naples in 1548 and burned as a heretic in Rome by the Inquisition in the year 1600. Bruno held the belief in the "Plurality of Worlds," which was the official charge made at his trial; a belief that parallel universes are in existence and that it is theoretically possible to visit them. As a metaphysician, I was compelled to make my own investigation into this matter.

I contacted Natalie, and old friend from my D.C. days who interprets both Russian and Czech. These two languages might prove necessary in making difficult connections during my research. To my delight, she was available and interested in visiting Prague to assist me. Also, since Natalie is an opera buff, the revival of Don Giovanni, composed by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and currently running at the Prague State Opera, helped sway her decision even more. I immediately went online and purchased two seats for the opera, which pleased Natalie and sealed the deal. We met at Newark Liberty Airport; a 7:45 pm departure would get us into Prague in the early morning. Continental Airlines co-partners with CSA, the Czech airlines, which runs non-stop service to Prague on certain flights. By using my One Pass miles, I was able to upgrade to First Class seats for Natalie and myself. With a glass of Champagne to toast our trip, we enjoyed the flight over along with caviar and pirogi appetizers as a late night nosh.

Upon arriving in Prague, we were met by a limo driven by one of Natalie's friends, Natasha. To make things a bit interesting, they both referred to each other as Natasha, which confused the heck out of me. Finally, to make it easier for me and to avoid confusion, Natasha started using the English name Natalie when referring to, well, Natalie. I had booked two rooms for Natalie and myself, but it became clear that the limo ride was a freebie on Natasha's part and that both Natalie and Natasha would be using the second room during our visit. Also, it was assumed, since I really wasn't an opera aficionado, that Natasha would be accompanying Natalie to that evening's performance of Don Giovanni. As we arrived at our hotel, it also became clear that the two women needed some quality time together. After unpacking my bags, I ventured out into the streets of Prague, solo. We were staying at the Dorint Hotel in the suburb of Želivského, close to the Line A Metro. After purchasing a few train tickets, I took the Metro six stops to Staroměstská - Staré Město - Old Town.

Karlov Most and the Blind Prophet
During my initial research at the New York Public Library, I had found a lead to a possible clue etched into the base of a statue on Karlov Most - Charles Bridge. Charles IV’s Royal astrologists predicted the most auspicious time for the bridge to be built—on July the 9th, at 5:31 am, in the year 1357. This time is carved out on the Old Town Bridge Tower as the numbers 135797531. This carving is to be found near a statue depicting the Crucifixion of Christ. Upon seeing these numbers, I was totally overwhelmed - these numbers belong to me; it is my Social Security number! This coincidence unsettled me for a moment, but my goal was to find the statue of St. Jude on the Malá Strana side of the bridge. I found St. Jude, but didn't find any etchings that made sense to me. There was a bit of graffiti, but nothing that I could interpret myself. I had the thought that perhaps Natalie would be able to see something that I couldn't and was ready to return to the hotel, when a beggar called out to me. He was blind, dirty in a stained jacket and ripped pants; to my amazement, he spoke English.

I was hesitant to discuss the reason for my trip to the Charles Bridge, but he seemed to anticipate a question from me. Upon the first mention of The Delomelanicon, he smiled and seemed to stare up to the invisible heavens. "It is best to be blind," he said. "The Kingdom of Shadows can only be grasped with eyes blind to the distractions of earthly life." He handed me a brochure for Kostel Panny Marie Vítězné - The Church of Our Lady of Victory, a shrine just a few blocks from the bridge. The brochure was in three languages, one of them being English. Inside this church resides the Bambino di Praga - The Infant of Prague. This effigy of Christ is revered the world over and even worshipped in a few cultures. In the Infant's left hand is a globe with a cross on top, denoting Christ's rule over the earth. "The Child only points the way," the beggar continued. "There are many worlds, ruled by many forces; the earth is only one part of the whole universe." The beggar advised me to go see the Infant of Prague. "His many vestments are on display...there are hundreds of them. But, one in particular will guide you to the next part of your quest. Each vestment is numbered. Look for number 666...and you will see."

Out of the Mouths of Babes
It was difficult finding the Church of Our Lady of Victory. There were no signs and I had to rely on the map on the back of the brochure. But, I followed the street named Karmelitská to the small church; entering, I found the altar that held the Infant of Prague doll. It is the custom to dress the Infant in rich vestments made around the world by the Bambino's faithful devotees. This day, the Infant wore a pink vestment made in the mountains of Mexico. I followed the sign to the back of the church, where there was a door with a sign that read "Museum." I was told by a woman that almost 1,000 vestments have been given to the church, but that only a handful are on display in the museum. It cost 350 CZK (about $20 USD) to enter the museum, which I paid at the museum's box office. After climbing two flights of stairs, I was met with a collection of doll clothing that would be the envy of any collector. What seemed like hundreds of vestments were meticulously fashioned, in colors that I didn't even know existed. The garments were all numbered, but not kept in any particular order. It took a few minutes, but I found number 666 - a blue outfit with black trim. There was a sign underneath the vestment that read: Szent Istvan Bazilika, Budapest. I asked the docent what the sign meant and was told that the vestment had been donated by the clergy at the Basilica of Saint Stephen in Budapest, Hungary. "It seems that the funds for the vestment were raised by the library at the basilica," she said. Then she continued, "it really is a fantastic library, with many volumes on religion and spirituality." I jokingly asked if there was a copy of The Delomelanicon at the library. "I don't know of the book you refer to, but that particular library is famous for having the writings of Giordano Bruno, in particular The Nine Doors to the Kingdom of Shadows."

I returned to the hotel to find Natalie and Natasha dressing for a night at the opera. We had enough time for dinner, so we made reservations at Pravda Restaurant in Staré Město. It was explained to me that, during the Russian occupation of Prague, the Pravda was a neutral meeting place between eastern and western spies. As I glanced around the giant dining room, I was met with steely glances from the regular patrons. To break the ice, and in the spirit of Glasnost, I raised my glass and offered a traditional Russian toast, "Na Of zdrovia," which seemed to put everyone at ease. It was explained to me that Czechs consider anyone who doesn't offer a toast before drinking to be an alcoholic. One patron from an adjacent table offered me a pieróg, which I gladly accepted. I glanced at Natalie, remembering the wonderful perogi she used to make on weekends at her apartment in Washington, D.C. I had to admit, her's were far superior to the Czech variety.

Natalie's famous Carpatho-Rusyn Pierogi

INGREDIENTS:
2 slices bacon
1 (20 ounce) can sauerkraut, drained and rinsed
1 teaspoon onion powder
3 tablespoons bacon grease

3 eggs
1/4 cup half-and-half cream
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup milk
1/4 cup butter, softened
5 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup butter, melted
1 egg, beaten

DIRECTIONS:
Place bacon in a large, deep skillet. Cook over medium high heat until evenly brown. Drain, reserving bacon grease, crumble and set aside.

In medium bowl, combine sauerkraut, onion powder, crumbled bacon and bacon grease. Stir well; set aside.

In large bowl, beat together 3 eggs, half-and-half, salt, milk and 1/4 cup butter with electric mixer. Stir in flour to form a soft dough. Cover and let rest 5 minutes in a warm place. Grease hands and dough with butter, and knead on a floured surface 10 minutes. Divide dough into 4 sections, and grease each with butter to prevent drying out.

Melt remaining 1/4 cup butter; beat remaining egg, combine egg and butter, and set aside. Roll out a section of dough to a thickness of 1/8 inch. Cut out 4 inch circles with round cutter or glass. Place one tablespoon sauerkraut filling in the center of each circle, brush the edges of the circle with the butter and egg mixture, fold in half and press edges together to seal. Repeat with remaining sections of dough.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook pierogi for 5 minutes, or until they float to the top.

хороший аппетит! (Bon Appétit!)

Since Natasha was dressed in a formal gown, I offered to drive the limo and drop both women off at the opera after dinner. We ordered some cabbage and dumplings, which I'm told is a Czech delicacy. I had a few more Pilsner Urquells, which really hit the spot, and the innkeeper gave me the glass with the beer's logo as a souvenir. He winked at Natasha, perhaps remembering her from her days as a communist party organizer. After dropping off the women at the opera, I returned to Staré Město and walked the streets, thinking of my next step. A voice from within told me that I should continue my quest in Budapest. As I walked through Wenceslas Square, a vendor called me over to look at his wares. He smiled at me and held out a small facsimile of the Infant of Prague. I held my breath and gasped when I realized the Bambino was wearing the same outfit as I saw earlier at the museum; number 666. Turning the statue over, my intuitive guidance was confirmed as I read "Made in Hungary" on the base. I asked the vendor the price of the statue, but he just continued smiling and waved off my offer to pay.

After the opera was finished, I picked up Natalie and Natasha and returned to the hotel. We agreed to talk things over at breakfast and I retired to my room. I awoke from a bad dream at about 4 am, and knocked at the interleading door to Natalie's room. The door was open, so I peeked in to find the two women seemingly exhausted after a night of passion...an empty bottle on the floor. "Ah," I thought to myself, "Absinthe - The Green Fairy." I knew then that I would be going to Budapest alone.

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Universal Attraction: Welcome to Las Vegas!

Journey to the Center: AV in LV

Sooner or later, most Americans will pay at least one visit to Las Vegas, Nevada. This city has become the number one tourist attraction for world travelers during the past ten years. Las Vegas is considered the largest adult playground in the world, and is sometimes also called “Sin City” because of legalized gambling and the open access to prostitution. But, behind the glitz and glamour of Las Vegas Boulevard (The Strip), there percolates a dynamic spiritual vortex that continues to attract those of us who are plugged into the forces of love, peace and universal harmony. Part of my trip was devoted to reuniting with a group of fellow metaphysical practitioners and learning some new techniques and tools of the trade. In many ways, my trip to Las Vegas was a journey to the center of the mind.

Planning is necessary to assure the lowest possible rates. I have always found it important to do my own research. Consulting with Websites to get comparative airline, hotel and entertainment rates takes only a few minutes, but will allow you to get a feel for the average prices and make you an educated consumer when you finalize your itinerary. In my case, I found average airline fares on Continental.com for the dates and times I wished to travel. I then consulted the Websites of some hotels that interested me. The final figure I arrived at would not be my final budget, however, as the most important step will come next. With my draft budget in hand, I visited Liberty Travel, an agency that deals exclusively with matching vacation packages with a traveler's demands. I had a short list of three casino hotels and was able to get a complete package that included air fare, transfers, hotel stay and entertainment credits that saved me hundreds of dollars over anything I could have done myself. In fact, a four-night stay at the Wynn resort cost me less than $700, which included a free buffet dinner, tickets to Spamalot, a non-stop flight from Newark Airport to Las Vegas plus jitney transfers to and from the airport to the Wynn. By the way, the draft budget I did on my own was over $100 more and didn't include any of the perks I got with Liberty Travel. Resorts often give their best deals to travel companies, many of which are not published elsewhere. I subscribe to Liberty Travel's newsletter, which alerts me to a miriad of deals for travelers able to take advantage of short-term opportunities.

This was my sixth visit to Las Vegas in the past 15 years, so I hit the ground running upon arrival at the airport. Taking only a carry-on bag saved me up to an hour at the carousel at McCarran Airport, which is notoriously slow. The arrival and departure gates are at a distance from the main terminal, so there is a tram ride involved in getting to your baggage. Not to worry, however, since the shuttle buses and taxis to the hotels are just downstairs from the tram's terminus. In my case, Liberty Travel gave me a voucher for transfer via Bell Trans, a dependable and high profile carrier. But, the caveat here is that the driver will wait until he has a full busload of people before leaving to make his drop-offs at the individual hotels. We waited for 30 minutes before wending our way down the Strip, stopping at each hotel to drop off or pick up riders and their bags. The Wynn is one of the farthest hotels from the airport, so we didn't arrive until over 90 minutes had elapsed. I made an inquiry at the Wynn's taxi desk and found that the return trip to the airport via cab would cost only $15. To save time, we dismissed the return voucher for Bell Trans when it came time to go home and relaxed during a ten-minute ride back to the airport.

Not Only for Gamblers Although there are slot machines everywhere you go in Las Vegas (even at the airport), the city exudes a high-energy vibe conducive to any activity. Atlantic City, Las Vegas' cousin in New Jersey, currently has the advertising slogan "Always Turned On," but doesn't deliver the 24-hour, pulse pounding excitement that Las Vegas offers. Even though I put in a full day at work before flying into town, I wasn't tired in the least and let the manic mood of Las Vegas just settle into my psyche. You are seldom alone when you stroll the pavement at 3 am, greeting boisterous revelers along the Strip. But, the major surprise was meeting up with hundreds of construction workers toiling at the many sites along the Las Vegas Boulevard. Pedestrian detours abound, as it is necessary to twist around and through Hard Hat sites that provide evidence of the city's abundant development. By the second day, these workers became like old friends, one of them even asked me if I could bring back coffee for his 2 am break.

I counted at least three new resorts in their final stages of construction. One in particular, the Palazzo, the upscale brother to the Venetian, looms large across the street from the Wynn. Not to be outpaced, Steve Wynn has begun contruction on an all-suite addition named the Encore. But, the ultimate reason for my trip to Las Vegas was to meet fellow metaphysical practitioners and learn about new techniques. I must say, the exposure did me a world of good and introduced me to the wonderful world of aromatherapy. Also, I purchased a professional model head massager that literally sends shivers up and down my spine and helps open all the chakras of the kundalini. Such a wonder was experienced by those of us taking part in this activity, that I will be certain to write more about my metaphysical ramblings in Las Vegas in a later blog post. We also visited one of the omnipresent Oxygen Bars scattered throughout Las Vegas. The pleasure of breathing in the oxygen mixture while getting a scalp massage with eucalyptus oil really wakes you up and energizes the whole day!

One of my fellow metaphysicians actually lives and works in Las Vegas. Dorothy, an old friend from my days in Washington, D.C. dances as "Nesrin" the belly dancer in a club on the Miracle Mile; located in Planet Hollywood, the mall contains 170 specialty stores,15 tantalizing restaurants, and an array of entertainment experiences. Sensual dance is one of the many ways a person can practice the metaphysical arts. By offering her expert services as a massage therapist during the day and performing her mesmerizing dances at night, Dorothy is able to participate in all aspects of the mind-body connection. It was good to meet and greet other metaphysicians and swap our life stories and gain insights into the workings of the Universe. On the final day of my visit to "Sin City," I was able to indulge in the miracle of massage and aromatherapy. The bathtubs of many resorts are quite large and include a Jacuzzi. Meditating for what seemed like hours while being gently caressed by the aromatic bubbles, we were relaxed and able to rise at 3 am for the return flight home.

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On the Boardwalk of Atlantic City

Yearly Return Brings Back Fond Memories

Many traditions are maintained, especially around the holidays. For me, Thanksgiving means a return to my New Jersey roots. I remember back to the mid-1960s when I helped establish the "Jerseymen's Club" at Junior High School. During my teen years, long before Atlantic City became a gambler's mecca, I was proud of the history and culture that surrounded the city, incorporated in 1852 when the Camden & Atlantic Railroad laid the first tracks across the state. There were many other firsts that occurred in Atlantic City:

World's first Boardwalk -- opened in 1870.

Steel Pier, the world's premier amusement pier -- opened in 1898.

Salt Water Taffy -- Originated in 1883 on the Boardwalk after a storm flooded a candy store.

Postcards. The first-ever picture postcards were color views of Atlantic City.

Rolling Chairs debuted in 1887. The chairs are now a permanent attraction for visitors and an excellent way to travel the Boardwalk.

Monopoly. If the street names sound familiar and you've never been to Atlantic City, it's because the game of Monopoly was developed by Charles Darrow in 1929 using the city's streets. It went on to become the most popular board game ever. Who wouldn't want to own a hotel on Boardwalk?

"Airport." The word was first used in Atlantic City in reference to the city's flying field.

Miss America. The pageant made Atlantic City its home for over 80 years. The first Miss America was crowned in 1921.

Mr. Peanut. The most successful commercial icon and unofficial ambassador of the city -- celebrating Atlantic City's historically affluent lifestyle.

Walking the boardwalks today, it's hard to believe that Atlantic City once epitomized America's wealth and dominance among the world's economies. The grand hotels and resorts, the stylish men and women who strolled the Boardwalk, have been replaced by casually-dressed tourists (many daytrippers) who are drawn to the City's casinos and entertainment centers. "High Tea," once the hallmark of the elite, has been replaced with copious buffets that promise to bust any diet and add excess pounds to an already overly obese America. We did, however, find a wonderful take-out restaurant: Piazza di Giorgio. Located at The Pier on the Boardwalk (across from Caesar's), Giorgio's has a healthy selection of low-fat, low calorie salads and delicious entrées, such as chicken kebobs, lamb, beef, salmon and other fish, and delicious wraps. A complete meal from Giorgio's comes with two sides and either a tossed green salad or a Caesar's salad. Priced at about half what a buffet would cost, we were able to take dinner back to our timeshare unit and save countless hundreds of calories!

The question arises whether the 29-year experiment with casinos has been a success for Atlantic City. There was a promise made back in 1978 that the casinos would revitalize the city, which was in decline and in dire need of urban renewal. Nearly 30 years later, the same problems are still there; the poverty of the surrounding area is staggering when you consider the wealth being funneled into the casinos' coffers. In light of the proliferation of casinos in the neighboring states of Pennsylvania, Delaware and Connecticut, Atlantic City's command of revenue from gambling grows more precarious as its share in the action diminishes. There has been a decided effort to upgrade the clientele in Atlantic City by offering posh shops and boutiques and cutting back on the comps that attract daytrippers to the casinos. Free lodging and food credits that once attracted low-rollers (such as myself) have been drastically cut back or terminated. The message is clear: the casinos are hurting and visitors can no longer expect a free lunch.

The Jewel of the Boardwalk

One aspect of the Boardwalk that was a complete surprise to me was the refurbishing of the old Atlantic City Convention Center, now renamed Boardwalk Hall. The arena is now used for concerts, sporting events and conventions. We were able to get good tickets for Fashion On Ice, which featured the skating of Sasha Cohen and other Olympic athletes, and the singing of Sarah Brightman. The stars wore the fashions of John and Victoria Bartlett, Heatherette, and Tracy Reese. The show was taped for January airing on WNBC. The Hall maintains the original Art Deco architechture, but the upgraded concession stands and seats are a welcome addition. Boardwalk Hall gives some hope that Atlantic City has the potential of again becoming a mega resort, without relying solely on casinos.

Another jewel that has been completely overlooked by the media is the Atlantic City Historical Museum, located uptown on the Garden Pier. We "discovered" the museum while walking the full extent of the Boardwalk. The Sunday afternoon we visited the Museum, we were the sole tourists. The 30-minute video tape that runs continuously contains footage of the heyday of Atlantic City and should not be missed! Free to the public, I am truly amazed how such a wonderful place is overlooked in most brochures and tourist magazines. On display throughout the Museum are newspaper articles showing the historical beginnings of Atlantic City, and includes tons of photos and collectible artifacts from the many hotels and resorts that spaned the Boardwalk. As a New Jersey native, I am proud of this "Golden Era" when Atlantic City was truly "America's Playground."

Here She Comes...Miss America?

On Monday afternoon, we attended a rally held by Sex Workers Outreach Project USA to commemorate the brutal slaying of four Atlantic City prostitutes a year ago. In May of this year, just blocks from where the bodies of the four women were found, two other female sex workers were violently murdered and a third was assaulted. Those cases are still unsolved. This violence against persons in the sex industry is unconscionable, yet it persists because our society has often turned a blind eye to individuals who are marginalized and stigmatized by criminal laws and social discourse. That the bodies of women were dumped in a swampy ravine along Route 40 in a town called Pleasantville makes the crime seem even more heinous.

The Sex Workers Project is encouraged by the work of the New Jersey state and local police, the F.B.I., and the Atlantic County Prosecutor, as well as other officials who are pursuing this case. The swift establishment of a Task Force to investigate these horrific murders is commendable. It has been deeply troubling that violence against sex workers in the past has not been met with rigorous concern and is often viewed as a “hazard of the trade,” but it appears that authorities are working hard to find the killer(s) and to end the campaign of fear against vulnerable women in Atlantic City.

To commemorate the lives of workers who have been subject to violence, the Sex Workers Outreach Project USA (SWOP-USA) began the annual Day to End Violence Against Sex Workers in 2003. The day is marked by vigils worldwide. Created in December 2001, the Sex Workers Project is the first program in the country to focus on the provision of legal services, legal training, documentation, and policy advocacy for sex workers. Using a harm reduction and human rights model, the SWP protects the rights and safety of sex workers who by choice, circumstance, or coercion remain in the industry.

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