Long Weekend in the Andes

Avenue of the Volcanoes

When it comes to kicking back and relaxing, there is no better place than the Andean Highlands of Ecuador. Only a three-hour drive from the coastal port of Guayaquil, Cuenca is a city of magnificent charm and cultural traditions that make "La Mitad del Mundo" such a touristic magnet. The coolness of the mountain climate contrasts with the high heat and humidity of the coast. Temperatures don't climb past the 70s during the day, but might plunge into the mid 30s at night. This is welcome relief for the traveler venturing up from the steamy beaches of the coast. There is always snow atop the highest peaks and volcanoes, which provide great subjects for shutterbugs and appeal to the nature lover inside us all. Only 3,000 miles due south of the New York/New Jersey region, Ecuador provides two destinations for the price of one: hot cities and beaches of "La Costa," and cold towns and bucolic splendor of "La Sierra." Even though Ecuador maintains Eastern Standard Time year-round, it is on the Pacific coast.

Ecuador uses the US dollar, so this is a plus when it comes time to negotiate prices. A four-day jaunt in the clouds of the Sierras is affordable due to low airfare. For example, the fare on Continental Airlines leaving Friday mid-morning from Newark Liberty International Airport to the seaport city of Guayaquil only costs $427 round trip. The plane makes one stop in Houston, Texas on the way. By arriving in Ecuador at 12:30 a.m., you beat the rush of travelers arriving during the daytime hours and can simply transfer by taxi to Guayaquil's midtown bus terminal (Terminal Terrestre) to catch an early morning direct coach to Cuenca (a four-hour bus ride) that will cost you $15 (USD). This will put you high atop the Andes by 8:00 a.m. Saturday at the latest. Before getting in the bus, try an old favorite drink of mine (available at the 24-hour snack bar). It's a blend of fresh bananas, a raw egg, sugar, malt, and dark beer (cerveza negra). This drink really settles you down for the bumpy ride up to Cuenca.

Cuenca lies atop la cordillera de Los Andes, sometimes called the altiplano or Andean Highlands. The first thing you will realize (in fact, you'll realize this half-way through the bus trip) is that the temperature is 35-40 degrees colder than in Guayaquil. You'll definitely need to pack a sweater to wear up in the mountains. Arriving on Saturday is great, because you can spend the whole day in Cuenca sightseeing and shopping in the many fine stores along the Tomebamba River. The Incan artifacts are relatively inexpensive, as are the woven blankets and sweaters that Ecuador is famous for worldwide. You will also find many Panama hat factories around the city. The name "Panama" is a misnomer, as these hats have traditionally been produced in Cuenca for over one hundred years. They are called Panama hats because workers arriving from the United States to build the Panama Canal first saw them there. Finely crafted and tightly-woven, the hats found in Cuenca are superior in quality to any found elsewhere on the globe.

You will also take note of the language of the indigenous population in the Sierras. The language, called Quechua, is the same idiom spoken by the Incas. The Ecuadorian Highlands has an agrarian economy, with many still working the terraced fields of their Incan ancestors. One point of interest is that there are over 100 varieties of potatoes in Ecuador, depending on the altitude that it's grown at. While the coast boasts a fine assortment of fruits and vegetables including banana, plantains, guava, mango, avocados, etc., the Highlands raise primarily tubers and other root plants. Corn is also plentiful, as the Incan diet and religion was dependent on maize production. Try a glass of traditional Chicha, or homemade corn beer, first made by the Incas. When you enter a restaurant in Cuenca, don't be surprised that instead of bread, the waiter brings you a basket of popcorn. Long a staple of Andean cuisine, the indigenous corn has larger kernels than we are familiar with in the U.S. Hearty soups are also widely made, and folks in the Andes love to add cooked corn kernels to their bowl, along with potatoes and cabbage. After a day of walking and sightseeing, such a soup really sticks to your ribs and will help fend off the evening chill.

As the sun sinks below the rim of the Andes, the bells of the cows and llamas in the far off fields can be heard, as the animals return home for the night. The shepherds play the traditional Incan flute, which makes a soulful sound as the light of day fades into the starry twilight. Because of the altitude, the stars actually look many times larger than back home. Fog descends into the valley, caused by the rapid drop in temperature. It seldom rains in Cuenca, but a fine mist should be expected as the fog blankets the town. The evening is the perfect time to visit a local tavern, where Scotch whiskey is served along with trago, a drink made from sugar cane that is similar to "white lightning" back in the states. Trago is served warm and should be sipped, as the alcohol is very potent and really sneaks up on you. Be cautious if the bartender asks if you would like to buy a bottle of imported Scotch at what seems to be a low price. Ecuador imports liquor by the barrel and some unethical bottlers either water the whiskey down or substitute domestic varieties and then slap an imported label on the bottle. Even though the bottle has an official-looking seal and tax stamp, it may not be the real stuff. Most taverns have live entertainment--lots of traditional Incan flutes and string instruments. So, even if the liquor isn't authentic, you will be transported to another level by the pentatonic scale of the Andean music. It will be easy to fall asleep after a night of such fine entertainment.

Sunday is the perfect day to travel to the Inca ruins of Ingapirca, a short taxi ride outside of Cuenca. Plan to get there in the early morning, as the ruins tend to be crowded in the afternoons. You can walk the same stones as the Incas did over 500 years ago. Faithfully restored, Ingapirca also has a fine museum of Incan antiquities. You will find that the docent speaks English well enough to answer most of your questions. Close your eyes and imagine yourself in the midst of such a historic landmark, literally on top of the world. Give yourself about 2-3 hours time at the ruins, then take the taxi to the nearby town of Azogues, where Sunday is bargain day--at the largest Incan market in Canar province. Don't be afraid to haggle over the prices of Incan textiles and other artifacts. The Indians love to hear compliments about their handiwork, and the price tends to go down the more you praise their work. As the afternoon progresses, you may need to stop at the food court, where you can find Andean cuisine at it's finest--cooked over a wood fire. The soups are particularly filling and tasty. You may even try a bite of barbecued guinea pig--a special treat in the Andes. If you're brave enough, ask for it well cooked, bien cocido. Nothing tastes better with this delicacy than a cold glass of Pilsener, the local Ecuadorian beer.

After an afternoon of shopping, it's back to Cuenca for another evening of entertainment. Monday comes all too soon, so retire early so that you can get the early bus back to Guayaquil. The buses start running at 2 a.m., so, depending on your returning flight back to Newark, it's always best to allow for an extra hour or so transit time. Buses often stop for breaks along the way, and it depends on the driver as to where and when. If you leave Cuenca at 3 a.m., you can make the bus terminal by 8 a.m., the latest. If your plane leaves late at night, you might be lucky enough to have a day in Guayaquil for sightseeing. Just ask a taxi driver to take you to Simon Bolivar International Airport, and you're on your way back home--refreshed, after a long weekend in the beautiful Andes.

SEND E-MAIL INQUIRIES OR COMMENTS: alvoto@aol.com

No Passport...No Problem!

San Juan, Puerto Rico...a "jonron!"
When planning a tropical trip, it's best to keep things as simple as possible. In light of the new passport requirement being imposed on foreign travel and the lengthy wait time involved in either getting a new or updated U.S. passport, staying within the United States is a matter of necessity for those without the official document. So, it's either Hawaii...or the 51st state; oh, I mean the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico. For those on the East Coast, it's an easy three- to four-hour plane ride south to San Juan. Again, the domestic fare works in favor of those travelers on a shoe-string budget. As of January 23, 2007, a passport is required for air travel between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda. As early as January 1, 2008, all persons traveling by land or sea (including ferries), may be required to present a valid passport or other documents as determined by the Department of Homeland Security. There are also obvious benefits for Puerto Rican travel: English is readily spoken and understood, even though most Puerto Ricans prefer to speak Spanish; the U.S. dollar is the official currency, making it muy suave to negotiate prices on the island; Puerto Ricans have assimilated the U.S. culture and customs.

At the time Meg and I were down there, I felt like I was at home; the atmosphere is amazingly like that of the tri-state area. In fact, most people watch the New York City broadcast channels to get their news. Just like being home, we watched all three of the major New York TV stations to keep in touch with NJ weather, etc. With this in mind, is it any wonder that Puerto Ricans are going loco for "Los Mets de Nueva York?" Carlos Beltran is on advertising posters, and the baseball aficionados who noted my Mets cap were eager to share their knowledge of the Mets. Sure, I did notice more Yankee caps being worn in San Juan, but there were quite a few Mets caps as well. In Sunday's El Nuevo Dia, a daily newspaper published in Spanish, there was an article on Carlos Beltran's great start to the 2007 season. I guess I never really considered that Puerto Rican papers have reporters covering the teams in New York. But, considering the huge P.R. community in the NY/NJ area, I now realize that there is a close kinship. I kept the newspaper article, as it's helping me to better understand baseball terminology converted to the Spanish language; like "jardinero central," for centerfielder, and "jonron," for home run. Carlos Beltran seems to be a favorite among Puerto Rican baseball fans. As a segue, the name of our bellhop at the hotel was Jose Reyes. But, he was quick to state that he's a proud Puerto Rican; he likes the way Jose of the Mets plays, but was also just as quick to mention that Dominicans are accepted, but not appreciated as much as "Boricua" players.

Take the bus, and save "mucho dinero."
When it comes to transportation, you can't beat the Autoridad Metropolitana de Autobuses, AMA. The bus is easily the most efficient and practical way to get around the greater San Juan area. For just 75 cents, you can ride an entire bus route. The only caveat is to remember to bring enough coins, as the buses are exact-change only and the driver can't accept paper currency. We took the B-21 bus to Old San Juan (going west) and also Plaza Las Americas (going east) from the Condado area. The buses run on a well-maintained schedule and are very clean. But, there are times when patrons must stand, as seating is limited. It is the custom for males to give up their seat to women, and even women stand up to make way for seniors and the handicapped. Since most people in Puerto Rico speak English, it is very easy to ask for directions or recommendations from fellow bus patrons. If you prefer to take a taxi cab, the fares are economical. We took a cab from the airport to the Marriott Resort on Ashford Avenue in Condado (a distance of 5 miles) and paid only 14 dollars. Compare this to the $1.50 fare (one transfer) that the bus will cost, and you can see why most natives prefer using the bus.

Resort vs. Hotel
When choosing lodging in San Juan, you must choose between the luxurious accommodations offered at a resort and the low cost of staying at a hotel. The resort offers more spacious guest rooms, with features such as a beachfront, pool, exercise room and spa. Also, for those who don't want to leave the complex at night, a resort offers in-house restaurants and entertainment. We stayed at a resort and don't regret it one bit. Sure, we could have saved half the daily room rate at a chain hotel (the Holiday Inn Express down the street is cheap, but very cramped), but to stretch out and enjoy the decadent care lavished on us at the Marriott resort was worth every penny. We also enjoyed the nightly buffet ($28) at La Vista restaurant, which provided a lavish array of typical Puerto Rican dishes such as Mofongo, as well as a diverse selection of seafood and prime rib. The local restaurants off-site were comparable in price, but the quality was not as high as the resort provided.

Make time for Shopping!
As always, Meg proved to be a shrewd shopper and mandated a trip to Plaza Las Americas. This shopping center, just a short bus ride from Condado, has everything...and more. It advertises itself as the largest shopping center in the Caribbean, and it's absolutely true! They even have a bowling alley and multi-plex cinema to boot! Living in New Jersey, close to the Paramus shopping meccas, I was astounded by the size of this San Juan mall. There is nothing in the NY/NJ area that compares with Plaza Las Americas. We spent the day there, and could have used an additional day to see all the stores. Besides shopping and entertainment, there are well over 20 fast food restaurants to choose from. And, best of all, the B-21 bus costs only 75 cents (one way).

Save a whole day for Old San Juan
Just three miles from our Condado resort, Old San Juan holds all the charm of a historic city and features a variety of shopping and entertainment. The waterfront area bustles with activity, even when there are no ships arriving. Puerto Ricans are lucky to have such a rich seafaring history. Major shipping companies have docks along San Juan Bay on one side of the island. The other side of the island offers excellent beachfront vistas along the Atlantic Ocean shoreline. Don't forget to visit Morro Castle, the most famous landmark in Puerto Rico; a place of historical import, where you will learn of the many nations that fought to gain this blessed "Isla del Encanto." After spending three days in San Juan, we vowed to return again for a longer stay!

Pollo Asado Relleno con Mofongo:
1 small chicken (roasted)
3 green plantains
1 teaspoon salt
4 cups water
3 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon olive oil
Optional: fried bacon, lard or vegetable oil

Peel plantains. Cut into one inch slices. Soak for 15 minutes in salt and water. Drain well. Heat fat or oil (350 degrees if you are using a deep fryer). Add plantain slices and fry for 15 minutes but do not brown. Drain on paper towel. Shred the chicken into small pieces. In a mortar (for pounding), crush garlic cloves and sprinkle with salt, add olive oil to the mixture and keep pounding. Crush a portion of the fried plantains slices and the chicken. Add some of the garlic and olive oil mixture and keep pounding. Spoon the mixture and shape into two inch balls. Place in oven pan and keep warm until you are ready to serve. Suggestions: Prepare chicken broth and pour over mofongo, so it will be juicy.

Buen Provecho!

SEND E-MAIL INQUIRIES OR COMMENTS: alvoto@aol.com