Long Weekend in the Andes

Avenue of the Volcanoes

When it comes to kicking back and relaxing, there is no better place than the Andean Highlands of Ecuador. Only a three-hour drive from the coastal port of Guayaquil, Cuenca is a city of magnificent charm and cultural traditions that make "La Mitad del Mundo" such a touristic magnet. The coolness of the mountain climate contrasts with the high heat and humidity of the coast. Temperatures don't climb past the 70s during the day, but might plunge into the mid 30s at night. This is welcome relief for the traveler venturing up from the steamy beaches of the coast. There is always snow atop the highest peaks and volcanoes, which provide great subjects for shutterbugs and appeal to the nature lover inside us all. Only 3,000 miles due south of the New York/New Jersey region, Ecuador provides two destinations for the price of one: hot cities and beaches of "La Costa," and cold towns and bucolic splendor of "La Sierra." Even though Ecuador maintains Eastern Standard Time year-round, it is on the Pacific coast.

Ecuador uses the US dollar, so this is a plus when it comes time to negotiate prices. A four-day jaunt in the clouds of the Sierras is affordable due to low airfare. For example, the fare on Continental Airlines leaving Friday mid-morning from Newark Liberty International Airport to the seaport city of Guayaquil only costs $427 round trip. The plane makes one stop in Houston, Texas on the way. By arriving in Ecuador at 12:30 a.m., you beat the rush of travelers arriving during the daytime hours and can simply transfer by taxi to Guayaquil's midtown bus terminal (Terminal Terrestre) to catch an early morning direct coach to Cuenca (a four-hour bus ride) that will cost you $15 (USD). This will put you high atop the Andes by 8:00 a.m. Saturday at the latest. Before getting in the bus, try an old favorite drink of mine (available at the 24-hour snack bar). It's a blend of fresh bananas, a raw egg, sugar, malt, and dark beer (cerveza negra). This drink really settles you down for the bumpy ride up to Cuenca.

Cuenca lies atop la cordillera de Los Andes, sometimes called the altiplano or Andean Highlands. The first thing you will realize (in fact, you'll realize this half-way through the bus trip) is that the temperature is 35-40 degrees colder than in Guayaquil. You'll definitely need to pack a sweater to wear up in the mountains. Arriving on Saturday is great, because you can spend the whole day in Cuenca sightseeing and shopping in the many fine stores along the Tomebamba River. The Incan artifacts are relatively inexpensive, as are the woven blankets and sweaters that Ecuador is famous for worldwide. You will also find many Panama hat factories around the city. The name "Panama" is a misnomer, as these hats have traditionally been produced in Cuenca for over one hundred years. They are called Panama hats because workers arriving from the United States to build the Panama Canal first saw them there. Finely crafted and tightly-woven, the hats found in Cuenca are superior in quality to any found elsewhere on the globe.

You will also take note of the language of the indigenous population in the Sierras. The language, called Quechua, is the same idiom spoken by the Incas. The Ecuadorian Highlands has an agrarian economy, with many still working the terraced fields of their Incan ancestors. One point of interest is that there are over 100 varieties of potatoes in Ecuador, depending on the altitude that it's grown at. While the coast boasts a fine assortment of fruits and vegetables including banana, plantains, guava, mango, avocados, etc., the Highlands raise primarily tubers and other root plants. Corn is also plentiful, as the Incan diet and religion was dependent on maize production. Try a glass of traditional Chicha, or homemade corn beer, first made by the Incas. When you enter a restaurant in Cuenca, don't be surprised that instead of bread, the waiter brings you a basket of popcorn. Long a staple of Andean cuisine, the indigenous corn has larger kernels than we are familiar with in the U.S. Hearty soups are also widely made, and folks in the Andes love to add cooked corn kernels to their bowl, along with potatoes and cabbage. After a day of walking and sightseeing, such a soup really sticks to your ribs and will help fend off the evening chill.

As the sun sinks below the rim of the Andes, the bells of the cows and llamas in the far off fields can be heard, as the animals return home for the night. The shepherds play the traditional Incan flute, which makes a soulful sound as the light of day fades into the starry twilight. Because of the altitude, the stars actually look many times larger than back home. Fog descends into the valley, caused by the rapid drop in temperature. It seldom rains in Cuenca, but a fine mist should be expected as the fog blankets the town. The evening is the perfect time to visit a local tavern, where Scotch whiskey is served along with trago, a drink made from sugar cane that is similar to "white lightning" back in the states. Trago is served warm and should be sipped, as the alcohol is very potent and really sneaks up on you. Be cautious if the bartender asks if you would like to buy a bottle of imported Scotch at what seems to be a low price. Ecuador imports liquor by the barrel and some unethical bottlers either water the whiskey down or substitute domestic varieties and then slap an imported label on the bottle. Even though the bottle has an official-looking seal and tax stamp, it may not be the real stuff. Most taverns have live entertainment--lots of traditional Incan flutes and string instruments. So, even if the liquor isn't authentic, you will be transported to another level by the pentatonic scale of the Andean music. It will be easy to fall asleep after a night of such fine entertainment.

Sunday is the perfect day to travel to the Inca ruins of Ingapirca, a short taxi ride outside of Cuenca. Plan to get there in the early morning, as the ruins tend to be crowded in the afternoons. You can walk the same stones as the Incas did over 500 years ago. Faithfully restored, Ingapirca also has a fine museum of Incan antiquities. You will find that the docent speaks English well enough to answer most of your questions. Close your eyes and imagine yourself in the midst of such a historic landmark, literally on top of the world. Give yourself about 2-3 hours time at the ruins, then take the taxi to the nearby town of Azogues, where Sunday is bargain day--at the largest Incan market in Canar province. Don't be afraid to haggle over the prices of Incan textiles and other artifacts. The Indians love to hear compliments about their handiwork, and the price tends to go down the more you praise their work. As the afternoon progresses, you may need to stop at the food court, where you can find Andean cuisine at it's finest--cooked over a wood fire. The soups are particularly filling and tasty. You may even try a bite of barbecued guinea pig--a special treat in the Andes. If you're brave enough, ask for it well cooked, bien cocido. Nothing tastes better with this delicacy than a cold glass of Pilsener, the local Ecuadorian beer.

After an afternoon of shopping, it's back to Cuenca for another evening of entertainment. Monday comes all too soon, so retire early so that you can get the early bus back to Guayaquil. The buses start running at 2 a.m., so, depending on your returning flight back to Newark, it's always best to allow for an extra hour or so transit time. Buses often stop for breaks along the way, and it depends on the driver as to where and when. If you leave Cuenca at 3 a.m., you can make the bus terminal by 8 a.m., the latest. If your plane leaves late at night, you might be lucky enough to have a day in Guayaquil for sightseeing. Just ask a taxi driver to take you to Simon Bolivar International Airport, and you're on your way back home--refreshed, after a long weekend in the beautiful Andes.

SEND E-MAIL INQUIRIES OR COMMENTS: alvoto@aol.com