San Juan, Puerto Rico...a "jonron!"When planning a tropical trip, it's best to keep things as simple as possible. In light of the new passport requirement being imposed on foreign travel and the lengthy wait time involved in either getting a new or updated U.S. passport, staying within the United States is a matter of necessity for those without the official document. So, it's either Hawaii...or the 51st state; oh, I mean the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico. For those on the East Coast, it's an easy three- to four-hour plane ride south to San Juan. Again, the domestic fare works in favor of those travelers on a shoe-string budget. As of January 23, 2007, a passport is required for air travel between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda. As early as January 1, 2008, all persons traveling by land or sea (including ferries), may be required to present a valid passport or other documents as determined by the Department of Homeland Security. There are also obvious benefits for Puerto Rican travel: English is readily spoken and understood, even though most Puerto Ricans prefer to speak Spanish; the U.S. dollar is the official currency, making it muy suave to negotiate prices on the island; Puerto Ricans have assimilated the U.S. culture and customs.
At the time Meg and I were down there, I felt like I was at home; the atmosphere is amazingly like that of the tri-state area. In fact, most people watch the New York City broadcast channels to get their news. Just like being home, we watched all three of the major New York TV stations to keep in touch with NJ weather, etc. With this in mind, is it any wonder that Puerto Ricans are going loco for "Los Mets de Nueva York?" Carlos Beltran is on advertising posters, and the baseball aficionados who noted my Mets cap were eager to share their knowledge of the Mets. Sure, I did notice more Yankee caps being worn in San Juan, but there were quite a few Mets caps as well. In Sunday's El Nuevo Dia, a daily newspaper published in Spanish, there was an article on Carlos Beltran's great start to the 2007 season. I guess I never really considered that Puerto Rican papers have reporters covering the teams in New York. But, considering the huge P.R. community in the NY/NJ area, I now realize that there is a close kinship. I kept the newspaper article, as it's helping me to better understand baseball terminology converted to the Spanish language; like "jardinero central," for centerfielder, and "jonron," for home run. Carlos Beltran seems to be a favorite among Puerto Rican baseball fans. As a segue, the name of our bellhop at the hotel was Jose Reyes. But, he was quick to state that he's a proud Puerto Rican; he likes the way Jose of the Mets plays, but was also just as quick to mention that Dominicans are accepted, but not appreciated as much as "Boricua" players.
Take the bus, and save "mucho dinero."
When it comes to transportation, you can't beat the Autoridad Metropolitana de Autobuses, AMA. The bus is easily the most efficient and practical way to get around the greater San Juan area. For just 75 cents, you can ride an entire bus route. The only caveat is to remember to bring enough coins, as the buses are exact-change only and the driver can't accept paper currency. We took the B-21 bus to Old San Juan (going west) and also Plaza Las Americas (going east) from the Condado area. The buses run on a well-maintained schedule and are very clean. But, there are times when patrons must stand, as seating is limited. It is the custom for males to give up their seat to women, and even women stand up to make way for seniors and the handicapped. Since most people in Puerto Rico speak English, it is very easy to ask for directions or recommendations from fellow bus patrons. If you prefer to take a taxi cab, the fares are economical. We took a cab from the airport to the Marriott Resort on Ashford Avenue in Condado (a distance of 5 miles) and paid only 14 dollars. Compare this to the $1.50 fare (one transfer) that the bus will cost, and you can see why most natives prefer using the bus.
Resort vs. Hotel
When choosing lodging in San Juan, you must choose between the luxurious accommodations offered at a resort and the low cost of staying at a hotel. The resort offers more spacious guest rooms, with features such as a beachfront, pool, exercise room and spa. Also, for those who don't want to leave the complex at night, a resort offers in-house restaurants and entertainment. We stayed at a resort and don't regret it one bit. Sure, we could have saved half the daily room rate at a chain hotel (the Holiday Inn Express down the street is cheap, but very cramped), but to stretch out and enjoy the decadent care lavished on us at the Marriott resort was worth every penny. We also enjoyed the nightly buffet ($28) at La Vista restaurant, which provided a lavish array of typical Puerto Rican dishes such as Mofongo, as well as a diverse selection of seafood and prime rib. The local restaurants off-site were comparable in price, but the quality was not as high as the resort provided.
Make time for Shopping!
As always, Meg proved to be a shrewd shopper and mandated a trip to Plaza Las Americas. This shopping center, just a short bus ride from Condado, has everything...and more. It advertises itself as the largest shopping center in the Caribbean, and it's absolutely true! They even have a bowling alley and multi-plex cinema to boot! Living in New Jersey, close to the Paramus shopping meccas, I was astounded by the size of this San Juan mall. There is nothing in the NY/NJ area that compares with Plaza Las Americas. We spent the day there, and could have used an additional day to see all the stores. Besides shopping and entertainment, there are well over 20 fast food restaurants to choose from. And, best of all, the B-21 bus costs only 75 cents (one way).
Save a whole day for Old San Juan
Just three miles from our Condado resort, Old San Juan holds all the charm of a historic city and features a variety of shopping and entertainment. The waterfront area bustles with activity, even when there are no ships arriving. Puerto Ricans are lucky to have such a rich seafaring history. Major shipping companies have docks along San Juan Bay on one side of the island. The other side of the island offers excellent beachfront vistas along the Atlantic Ocean shoreline. Don't forget to visit Morro Castle, the most famous landmark in Puerto Rico; a place of historical import, where you will learn of the many nations that fought to gain this blessed "Isla del Encanto." After spending three days in San Juan, we vowed to return again for a longer stay!
Pollo Asado Relleno con Mofongo:
1 small chicken (roasted)
3 green plantains
1 teaspoon salt
4 cups water
3 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon olive oil
Optional: fried bacon, lard or vegetable oil
Peel plantains. Cut into one inch slices. Soak for 15 minutes in salt and water. Drain well. Heat fat or oil (350 degrees if you are using a deep fryer). Add plantain slices and fry for 15 minutes but do not brown. Drain on paper towel. Shred the chicken into small pieces. In a mortar (for pounding), crush garlic cloves and sprinkle with salt, add olive oil to the mixture and keep pounding. Crush a portion of the fried plantains slices and the chicken. Add some of the garlic and olive oil mixture and keep pounding. Spoon the mixture and shape into two inch balls. Place in oven pan and keep warm until you are ready to serve. Suggestions: Prepare chicken broth and pour over mofongo, so it will be juicy.
Buen Provecho!
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