Midsummer Night's Madness

Birthday Blowout in Quebec

June 24 is the traditional Midsummer's Day, known for magical occurrences and spiritual renewal. Coming on the heels of the Summer Solstice, this day is celebrated by various cultures as the longest day of the year. When I lived in Ecuador, it was my delight to celebrate the Inca feast of Inti Raymi, or the birthday of the Sun, on this day. South of the Equator, June 24 is part of the Inca's Winter Solstice celebrations. Since June 24 is celebrated in Quebec as the nativity of St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of that province, it seemed natural to want to go north of the border to celebrate my own birthday. Also, it fell on a Sunday this year, making it easy to plan a weekend trip.

Quebec City is only a distance of 500 miles from Bergen County, New Jersey with the average car using about 40 gallons of gas, round trip. This translates into a cost of about $120 for fuel and an enjoyable 12-hour road trip. Dividing the trip into sections will make the time element easier to understand. It's 300 miles to the Canadian border; then 50 miles up to Montreal; then another 150 miles due east to Quebec City. Stopping at rest stops along the way to stretch your legs and just relax, will ensure that you are refreshed when you get to Quebec. If you are fortunate enough to have two or more drivers, there will be ample time for everyone to sleep along the way. But, I have driven the entire route solo many times and the half-hour rest stops work for me.

Meg and I chose to leave at 10 p.m. on Friday night, hoping to make Montreal by breakfast-time on Saturday morning. When we got to the New York State Thruway (Route 87 North) we set the car on cruise control at the posted speed. The next three hours went by quickly, as we bypassed Albany, NY and continued on Route 87, which is called the NORTHWAY when it separates from the Thruway. We stopped at the last rest area on the Thruway to use the facilities and buy some coffee. It was 2 a.m. when we started up the Northway.

The first thing you realize is that the road is very dark, with no streetlights. At this early hour, there is the threat of deer and other animals crossing in front of the car. A speed of 55 m.p.h. is prudent, to enable the driver to stop in time to prevent a collision. We passed by Saratoga Springs and continued through Adirondack State Park. Our next stop was at dawn, which in June occurs about 4 a.m. up north. The Schroon Lake rest area is an old friend--providing both bathroom facilities and vending machines. At this hour, a cold diet Coke was very refreshing, indeed. Back on the road, we noticed that we would need to refuel soon, so we targeted Plattsburgh, NY as the best place to get gas before entering Canada. Plattsburgh has a selection of gas stations and fast food opportunities. To avoid paying for higher-priced Canadian gas, we stopped at a station that displayed the sign "Last Gas before Canada." We would hit the border in another 15 minutes. By filling up with gas in Plattsburgh, we were assured of not having to refuel until we again reached the same station on our return home.

Crossing the border at Champlain, NY before 7 a.m. is a snap, as there are few cars arriving this early. Passports at the ready, it only took 5 minutes to clear customs and enter Canada. Route 87 in the U.S. blends seamlessly into Autoroute 15 in the province of Quebec. For the next hour, we passed tidy farms and signs indicating that fireworks were for sale. When the sky became a bit hazy and tinged with gray, we knew that we were minutes from Montreal. The traffic also became more congested, as secondary roads melded into our path and hastened us forward. The speed limit is 110 kilometers per hour, which equates to a speed of 70 m.p.h. As we approached the city of Montreal, we had to be quick to pick up the sign for Autoroute 30 East. Having missed the exit the first time, it took us an extra 10 minutes to circle around and find the correct route. But, to our relief, we bypassed the city and ran parallel to the St. Lawrence River for about 15 miles before picking up Autoroute 20 West: Quebec.

During the next three hours, the air was charged with anticipation of being in Quebec City by noon. The distance from Montreal is about 150 miles, so the next landmark was Trois-Rivieres, the mid-point of the last leg. The outline of the Pierre LaPorte Bridge becomes clear about 10 miles from Quebec; a sight that brought us great satisfaction, as we anticipated checking into our hotel right after crossing the bridge. We chose to stay at the Best Western L'Aristocrate, which is located in St. Foy, due-west of the city, which is very clean and costs only $135 US per night. Also, being on Chemin Saint-Louis, which runs directly into Quebec City, the hotel is just 5 minutes from the main attractions in the old city. The comparable cost of an in-city hotel, like the Chateau Frontenac, is about $350 US. Since we were staying only Saturday night, this is a cost-savings that gave us more bang for our tourist buck.

Paris on the St. Lawrence Quebec has often been referred to as the "Paris of America." The quaint architecture and cobblestone streets in Old Quebec do make you think of the City of Light, only in miniature. Quebec City is extremely walkable, which means no buses or Metros to waste time during a one-day visit. Finding parking for the car isn't that difficult. Quebec has many City-run parking garages within the walled city, as well as on-street meters that allow you to park for up to 3 hours. My best advice is to park the car once and just enjoy strolling through the city. One of the best known landmarks is the Chateau Frontenac hotel, which stands on a bluff overlooking the St. Lawrence River. By orienting yourself with the Frontenac, you will have no problem staying on course as you meander through the labyrinthine streets of Quebec. The Promenade that extends past the Frontenac allows for an incredible vista that will take your breath away; it is possible to see well beyond 30 miles to the east of the city.

The history of the struggle between the British and the original French settlers is documented by exhibits within the Chateau Frontenac. The original city was founded by Samuel de Champlain in 1608, with many early homes restored. Looking down from the Promenade, which extends from Dufferin Terrace to Battlefields National Park, the original settlements can be seen below the bluff, close to the shoreline of the St. Lawrence River. This historical area is named "Quartier Petit Champlain," and boasts many quaint shops and restaurants that hearken back to the ancient beginnings of Quebec. To get down from the cliffs, there is a funicular available; otherwise, there are numerous wooden staircases that lead down to the Quartier. It's easy to descend the stairs, but coming back up requires a lot of energy. At 50 cents a ride, the funicular is recommended. Local products on sale include furs and other clothing made by the indigenous inhabitants of Canada. There are also imports from France and Great Britain, which are sold at remarkable prices. It is possible to purchase English tableware and Royal Doulton figurines at a fraction of the price you would pay here in the United States. This part of Quebec City is a virtual shoppers' paradise.

French Cuisine at Fast Food Prices One of the most incredible features of Quebec are the many wonderful restaurants that are spaced throughout the city. Haut Cuisine is readily available at prices cheaper than a meal at the McDonald's on Grand Allée. Meg and I both had the Poussins aux Herbes de Provence (Cornish Hens) with fresh herbs and vegetables, which were scrumptious. I also ordered Confit d'Oie (Goose Confit) which was a bit greasy, but superb none the less. The bill, including drinks, ran us only $28 US for the two of us. We checked other places on our walking tour of Quebec, only to find similar prices throughout the city. We ate a late lunch, then went to another restaurant around 8 p.m., where we dined on fondue. The cost of this dinner, including a bottle of French Bordeaux, was only $45 US total. The food alone deserves a return trip. At midnight on June 24, Meg and I toasted my birthday at an outdoor bar on the Promenade. Through the night air came the unmistakable sound of Inca pipes and flutes. Imagine, an Ecuadorian band--in Quebec. This was such a spiritual rush, especially on the day of Inti Raymi! To quote Jake Barnes in The Sun Also Rises, you don't have to go to Ecuador, "You see all the South Americans here anyway." In my mind, I came full circle, celebrating all of the June 24 holidays in one day!

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