Universal Attraction: Welcome to Las Vegas!

Journey to the Center: AV in LV

Sooner or later, most Americans will pay at least one visit to Las Vegas, Nevada. This city has become the number one tourist attraction for world travelers during the past ten years. Las Vegas is considered the largest adult playground in the world, and is sometimes also called “Sin City” because of legalized gambling and the open access to prostitution. But, behind the glitz and glamour of Las Vegas Boulevard (The Strip), there percolates a dynamic spiritual vortex that continues to attract those of us who are plugged into the forces of love, peace and universal harmony. Part of my trip was devoted to reuniting with a group of fellow metaphysical practitioners and learning some new techniques and tools of the trade. In many ways, my trip to Las Vegas was a journey to the center of the mind.

Planning is necessary to assure the lowest possible rates. I have always found it important to do my own research. Consulting with Websites to get comparative airline, hotel and entertainment rates takes only a few minutes, but will allow you to get a feel for the average prices and make you an educated consumer when you finalize your itinerary. In my case, I found average airline fares on Continental.com for the dates and times I wished to travel. I then consulted the Websites of some hotels that interested me. The final figure I arrived at would not be my final budget, however, as the most important step will come next. With my draft budget in hand, I visited Liberty Travel, an agency that deals exclusively with matching vacation packages with a traveler's demands. I had a short list of three casino hotels and was able to get a complete package that included air fare, transfers, hotel stay and entertainment credits that saved me hundreds of dollars over anything I could have done myself. In fact, a four-night stay at the Wynn resort cost me less than $700, which included a free buffet dinner, tickets to Spamalot, a non-stop flight from Newark Airport to Las Vegas plus jitney transfers to and from the airport to the Wynn. By the way, the draft budget I did on my own was over $100 more and didn't include any of the perks I got with Liberty Travel. Resorts often give their best deals to travel companies, many of which are not published elsewhere. I subscribe to Liberty Travel's newsletter, which alerts me to a miriad of deals for travelers able to take advantage of short-term opportunities.

This was my sixth visit to Las Vegas in the past 15 years, so I hit the ground running upon arrival at the airport. Taking only a carry-on bag saved me up to an hour at the carousel at McCarran Airport, which is notoriously slow. The arrival and departure gates are at a distance from the main terminal, so there is a tram ride involved in getting to your baggage. Not to worry, however, since the shuttle buses and taxis to the hotels are just downstairs from the tram's terminus. In my case, Liberty Travel gave me a voucher for transfer via Bell Trans, a dependable and high profile carrier. But, the caveat here is that the driver will wait until he has a full busload of people before leaving to make his drop-offs at the individual hotels. We waited for 30 minutes before wending our way down the Strip, stopping at each hotel to drop off or pick up riders and their bags. The Wynn is one of the farthest hotels from the airport, so we didn't arrive until over 90 minutes had elapsed. I made an inquiry at the Wynn's taxi desk and found that the return trip to the airport via cab would cost only $15. To save time, we dismissed the return voucher for Bell Trans when it came time to go home and relaxed during a ten-minute ride back to the airport.

Not Only for Gamblers Although there are slot machines everywhere you go in Las Vegas (even at the airport), the city exudes a high-energy vibe conducive to any activity. Atlantic City, Las Vegas' cousin in New Jersey, currently has the advertising slogan "Always Turned On," but doesn't deliver the 24-hour, pulse pounding excitement that Las Vegas offers. Even though I put in a full day at work before flying into town, I wasn't tired in the least and let the manic mood of Las Vegas just settle into my psyche. You are seldom alone when you stroll the pavement at 3 am, greeting boisterous revelers along the Strip. But, the major surprise was meeting up with hundreds of construction workers toiling at the many sites along the Las Vegas Boulevard. Pedestrian detours abound, as it is necessary to twist around and through Hard Hat sites that provide evidence of the city's abundant development. By the second day, these workers became like old friends, one of them even asked me if I could bring back coffee for his 2 am break.

I counted at least three new resorts in their final stages of construction. One in particular, the Palazzo, the upscale brother to the Venetian, looms large across the street from the Wynn. Not to be outpaced, Steve Wynn has begun contruction on an all-suite addition named the Encore. But, the ultimate reason for my trip to Las Vegas was to meet fellow metaphysical practitioners and learn about new techniques. I must say, the exposure did me a world of good and introduced me to the wonderful world of aromatherapy. Also, I purchased a professional model head massager that literally sends shivers up and down my spine and helps open all the chakras of the kundalini. Such a wonder was experienced by those of us taking part in this activity, that I will be certain to write more about my metaphysical ramblings in Las Vegas in a later blog post. We also visited one of the omnipresent Oxygen Bars scattered throughout Las Vegas. The pleasure of breathing in the oxygen mixture while getting a scalp massage with eucalyptus oil really wakes you up and energizes the whole day!

One of my fellow metaphysicians actually lives and works in Las Vegas. Dorothy, an old friend from my days in Washington, D.C. dances as "Nesrin" the belly dancer in a club on the Miracle Mile; located in Planet Hollywood, the mall contains 170 specialty stores,15 tantalizing restaurants, and an array of entertainment experiences. Sensual dance is one of the many ways a person can practice the metaphysical arts. By offering her expert services as a massage therapist during the day and performing her mesmerizing dances at night, Dorothy is able to participate in all aspects of the mind-body connection. It was good to meet and greet other metaphysicians and swap our life stories and gain insights into the workings of the Universe. On the final day of my visit to "Sin City," I was able to indulge in the miracle of massage and aromatherapy. The bathtubs of many resorts are quite large and include a Jacuzzi. Meditating for what seemed like hours while being gently caressed by the aromatic bubbles, we were relaxed and able to rise at 3 am for the return flight home.

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On the Boardwalk of Atlantic City

Yearly Return Brings Back Fond Memories

Many traditions are maintained, especially around the holidays. For me, Thanksgiving means a return to my New Jersey roots. I remember back to the mid-1960s when I helped establish the "Jerseymen's Club" at Junior High School. During my teen years, long before Atlantic City became a gambler's mecca, I was proud of the history and culture that surrounded the city, incorporated in 1852 when the Camden & Atlantic Railroad laid the first tracks across the state. There were many other firsts that occurred in Atlantic City:

World's first Boardwalk -- opened in 1870.

Steel Pier, the world's premier amusement pier -- opened in 1898.

Salt Water Taffy -- Originated in 1883 on the Boardwalk after a storm flooded a candy store.

Postcards. The first-ever picture postcards were color views of Atlantic City.

Rolling Chairs debuted in 1887. The chairs are now a permanent attraction for visitors and an excellent way to travel the Boardwalk.

Monopoly. If the street names sound familiar and you've never been to Atlantic City, it's because the game of Monopoly was developed by Charles Darrow in 1929 using the city's streets. It went on to become the most popular board game ever. Who wouldn't want to own a hotel on Boardwalk?

"Airport." The word was first used in Atlantic City in reference to the city's flying field.

Miss America. The pageant made Atlantic City its home for over 80 years. The first Miss America was crowned in 1921.

Mr. Peanut. The most successful commercial icon and unofficial ambassador of the city -- celebrating Atlantic City's historically affluent lifestyle.

Walking the boardwalks today, it's hard to believe that Atlantic City once epitomized America's wealth and dominance among the world's economies. The grand hotels and resorts, the stylish men and women who strolled the Boardwalk, have been replaced by casually-dressed tourists (many daytrippers) who are drawn to the City's casinos and entertainment centers. "High Tea," once the hallmark of the elite, has been replaced with copious buffets that promise to bust any diet and add excess pounds to an already overly obese America. We did, however, find a wonderful take-out restaurant: Piazza di Giorgio. Located at The Pier on the Boardwalk (across from Caesar's), Giorgio's has a healthy selection of low-fat, low calorie salads and delicious entrées, such as chicken kebobs, lamb, beef, salmon and other fish, and delicious wraps. A complete meal from Giorgio's comes with two sides and either a tossed green salad or a Caesar's salad. Priced at about half what a buffet would cost, we were able to take dinner back to our timeshare unit and save countless hundreds of calories!

The question arises whether the 29-year experiment with casinos has been a success for Atlantic City. There was a promise made back in 1978 that the casinos would revitalize the city, which was in decline and in dire need of urban renewal. Nearly 30 years later, the same problems are still there; the poverty of the surrounding area is staggering when you consider the wealth being funneled into the casinos' coffers. In light of the proliferation of casinos in the neighboring states of Pennsylvania, Delaware and Connecticut, Atlantic City's command of revenue from gambling grows more precarious as its share in the action diminishes. There has been a decided effort to upgrade the clientele in Atlantic City by offering posh shops and boutiques and cutting back on the comps that attract daytrippers to the casinos. Free lodging and food credits that once attracted low-rollers (such as myself) have been drastically cut back or terminated. The message is clear: the casinos are hurting and visitors can no longer expect a free lunch.

The Jewel of the Boardwalk

One aspect of the Boardwalk that was a complete surprise to me was the refurbishing of the old Atlantic City Convention Center, now renamed Boardwalk Hall. The arena is now used for concerts, sporting events and conventions. We were able to get good tickets for Fashion On Ice, which featured the skating of Sasha Cohen and other Olympic athletes, and the singing of Sarah Brightman. The stars wore the fashions of John and Victoria Bartlett, Heatherette, and Tracy Reese. The show was taped for January airing on WNBC. The Hall maintains the original Art Deco architechture, but the upgraded concession stands and seats are a welcome addition. Boardwalk Hall gives some hope that Atlantic City has the potential of again becoming a mega resort, without relying solely on casinos.

Another jewel that has been completely overlooked by the media is the Atlantic City Historical Museum, located uptown on the Garden Pier. We "discovered" the museum while walking the full extent of the Boardwalk. The Sunday afternoon we visited the Museum, we were the sole tourists. The 30-minute video tape that runs continuously contains footage of the heyday of Atlantic City and should not be missed! Free to the public, I am truly amazed how such a wonderful place is overlooked in most brochures and tourist magazines. On display throughout the Museum are newspaper articles showing the historical beginnings of Atlantic City, and includes tons of photos and collectible artifacts from the many hotels and resorts that spaned the Boardwalk. As a New Jersey native, I am proud of this "Golden Era" when Atlantic City was truly "America's Playground."

Here She Comes...Miss America?

On Monday afternoon, we attended a rally held by Sex Workers Outreach Project USA to commemorate the brutal slaying of four Atlantic City prostitutes a year ago. In May of this year, just blocks from where the bodies of the four women were found, two other female sex workers were violently murdered and a third was assaulted. Those cases are still unsolved. This violence against persons in the sex industry is unconscionable, yet it persists because our society has often turned a blind eye to individuals who are marginalized and stigmatized by criminal laws and social discourse. That the bodies of women were dumped in a swampy ravine along Route 40 in a town called Pleasantville makes the crime seem even more heinous.

The Sex Workers Project is encouraged by the work of the New Jersey state and local police, the F.B.I., and the Atlantic County Prosecutor, as well as other officials who are pursuing this case. The swift establishment of a Task Force to investigate these horrific murders is commendable. It has been deeply troubling that violence against sex workers in the past has not been met with rigorous concern and is often viewed as a “hazard of the trade,” but it appears that authorities are working hard to find the killer(s) and to end the campaign of fear against vulnerable women in Atlantic City.

To commemorate the lives of workers who have been subject to violence, the Sex Workers Outreach Project USA (SWOP-USA) began the annual Day to End Violence Against Sex Workers in 2003. The day is marked by vigils worldwide. Created in December 2001, the Sex Workers Project is the first program in the country to focus on the provision of legal services, legal training, documentation, and policy advocacy for sex workers. Using a harm reduction and human rights model, the SWP protects the rights and safety of sex workers who by choice, circumstance, or coercion remain in the industry.

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Happy Halloween

Neo-witches come of Age in America

The Pagans have traditionally celebrated the holiday of Samhain on October 31. Most people know this day as Halloween, or All Hallows Eve, the day before All Saints Day in the Roman Catholic Church.

Now that the Church is on the way out, the "Old Ways" are returning to an America that now embraces diversity and includes all religions and cultures into its society. No other tradition brings so much joy and happiness to both young and old than Halloween — the holiday that makes fantasy and superstition the business of the day. Scary masks are worn, and folks don costumes depicting scary monsters or even funny and outrageous beings.

Witches have even made a return, not as ugly hags, but now as beautiful creatures of the light as they were originally intended in days of yore. Paganism has been replaced by so-called New Age rituals, such as nature worship and honoring our Higher Power. Nothing but good can come of this new restoration of an old time-honored belief system.

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Gateway to a New Reality

"The Kingdom of Heaven is at Hand...NOW!" For some time, there has been a paradigm shift away from old, outmoded ways of thinking. In essence, we have been moving into a new reality during the past six years. On September 11, 2007, a solar eclipse will usher us into a brave, new world of spiritual ascension. As St. Paul says in his first letter to the Corinthians, "We see through a glass darkly, but (when we ascend) we shall see God face to face!" Over the past couple of months, many of us have begun our ascension to the higher spiritual levels. Opportunities have presented themselves, and we have seized upon them! Once the solar eclipse occurs, many more of us will be presented with unlimited potential. Portals will open throughout the Earth, allowing us to succeed beyond our wildest dreams. The solar eclipse, which will cut across South America at Cuzco, Peru (the ancient captial of the Incas) will focus its healing power on all of Earth's children who have "travailed and been heavy laden" under the old energy...of fear. Institutions that are no longer valid will begin to fall. Indeed, many of these institutions have already begun to fall...like the Roman Catholic Church, which has kept many under the yoke of fear for many centuries. The New Age will finally dawn, accelerating the demise of negative powers while increasing the proliferation of life-giving, positive energy.

In with the New...Out with the Old. The portals that will open around the world will offer a new reality of peace and love. These "windows of opportunity" will be a welcome sign to those of us who already are spiritually aligned. For me, the portal that has already opened is located in the Newport section of Jersey City, NJ (See above photo). It's no coincidence that the eclipse that will open up a gateway to a new reality occurs on September 11. Over the past six years, many people have hung onto a negative connotation for this date. Indeed, many plan to commemorate the date this year with an equally negative ritual of fear. It's time to move past the old view of America as a victim, to the new reality of a vibrant America...with an economy of prosperity, love and peace! If you look at the above picture, you will notice that the destroyed World Trade Center in New York City has already been replaced with towers of economic and financial wealth in New Jersey! Throughout the USA, there will be other portals opening to those who have eyes to see and ears to hear and understand this message of freedom and liberation.

Practice Karma Yoga! By surrendering our Ego to the potential of being At-one with the Universe, we will succeed in all of our endeavors. Life will start to become easier, as we "follow our bliss." Giving thanks to our Higher Power (whether we call it God, Jesus, Krishna, Buddha, Allah...or any other deity) will bring us much prosperity! When we finally realize that we, of our own power, cannot achieve happiness, we will allow ourselves to "enter the Kingdom of Heaven as children" as Jesus says in the gospels. If we believe in the infinate potential and love of the Universe, we will gain our heart's desire. By practicing Karma Yoga, we will align ourself with the power and potential of Love...and conquer Fear! We will see those around us as brothers and sisters, instead of competitors. By operating on a platform of Love, we will stamp out hate and the evil energies that have held the world in its grip of Fear! Like the song from the 1960s says: "You hold the key to Love and Fear...all in your trembling hand. Just one key unlocks them both...it's there at your command."

Let's choose Love!

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Beaupré Breakaway

Bonne Sainte Anne Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré is one of the foremost religious shrines in North America. Frequented by both Catholics and other Christian observants alike, there is a dense spiritual presence felt by those who make the pilgrimage. As the shrine gets ready to celebrate its 350th anniversary next year, Meg and I were drawn to return to what is always remembered as being a "happy place of peace and grace." Also, Saint Anne is the patron saint of my mother, who died earlier this year. Quebec was a favorite destination for my mother, who discovered its beauty during her honeymoon in 1946. I have personally been to Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré over 20 times over the past 35 years, either with my mother or other family members. Being less than 30 miles east of Quebec City, the basilica is only an hour's drive through beautiful Canadian countryside. The summer is the most pleasurable time to make a pilgrimage, since the Beaupré winters are considerably harsh. But, if you can't come in the summer, the basilica is open 365 days a year for visits. One of our greatest memories is a particularly wintry holiday visit right before Christmas. Yes, there was a lot of snow, but Québécois pride themselves on being hardy folk, and we found the roads all paved and passable.

Bring your faith Since the shrine's sanctuary is kept by the Redemptorist order of the Roman Catholic faith, the focus is strictly Christian. Regardless, it is not necessary to adhere to this faith to reap the benefits of being surrounded by the most powerful spiritual vortex in Canada. As a Metaphysician, I have been able to plumb the depths of this most sacred location and have discovered a channel to the healing power of the Universe. Indeed, as witnessed by numerous ex-votos in the form of crutches left by pilgrims who have been made whole by the sanctuary's renowned healing power. Notes attesting to "cures" can also be found at the rear of the church. July 26 is the feast day of Saint Anne, so the town of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré was especially crowded this year...with so many pilgrims needing healing--both physical and spiritual. The highlight of the evening was the candlelight procession that began at dusk. Viewed from the top of a nearby hill, it seemed like the stars of heaven had descended to encompass the landscape surrounding the basilica.

Search your soul Regardless of your religious beliefs, the spiritual value of coming to the shrine with an open heart and open mind cannot be overstated. The love that exists in the deep recesses of the basilica--psychic remnants of the thousands of previous pilgrims--can overwhelm the senses and bring a person into a state of rapture. I have found it easy to meditate and explore the desires of my soul in the sanctuary. In a world gone wild with brutality, there exists a peace and a "knowing that passes all understanding" in the gentle embrace of "angels, and archangels and all the company of heaven." To be in unity with the spirit that binds all humanity together is a reward that true pilgrims are often blessed with after intense introspection.

Commandez le bon prix! The currency exchange rate between the Canadian and US-dollar is practically at par. But, the availability of comfortable and inexpensive lodging in Quebec (as well as the famous hospitality and joie de vivre) is legendary. Hoteliers in Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré are no exception. For about $95.00 US, a modern, clean room--including continental breakfast--was found at the local Comfort Suites. Casual dining can also be found. Our favorite eatery in Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré is the local Marie Antoinette restaurant. With low-cost entrees that are priced below most typical fast food establishments, you can feast on such delicacies as Fruits de Mer, Duck à l'Orange, or even a fantastic Monte Cristo sandwich--you can find a treat for any palate. After spending a night and day in such a wonderfully spiritual place, you will leave saying Merci beaucoup, Bonne Sainte Anne!

My mother Anne loved making shortbread, and especially liked using the authentic maple syrup she purchased across the street from the basilica in Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré. What follows is her secret recipe, which she begged me not to make public until her death. May Anne's soul rest in peace--and may her spirit reside in her beloved Quebec!

Anne Voto's Maple Syrup Shortbread recipe:

Shortbread:
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour

Heat oven to 350 degrees F. Butter a 9-inch square pan.
Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add flour and mix until just blended. Pat into bottom of prepared dish. Bake until shortbread is light brown, about 25 minutes.

Maple Topping:
3/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1/3 cup maple syrup
1 tablespoon unsalted butter (at room temperature)
1 egg (at room temperature)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup chopped toasted walnuts

Beat sugar, maple syrup and butter to blend. Beat in egg and vanilla extract. Pour over shortbread. Sprinkle with walnuts. Bake until topping is set, about 25 minutes. Cool on rack.

Cut into 1 1/2 inch squares. Store in airtight container.

Bon Appétit!

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Midsummer Night's Madness

Birthday Blowout in Quebec

June 24 is the traditional Midsummer's Day, known for magical occurrences and spiritual renewal. Coming on the heels of the Summer Solstice, this day is celebrated by various cultures as the longest day of the year. When I lived in Ecuador, it was my delight to celebrate the Inca feast of Inti Raymi, or the birthday of the Sun, on this day. South of the Equator, June 24 is part of the Inca's Winter Solstice celebrations. Since June 24 is celebrated in Quebec as the nativity of St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of that province, it seemed natural to want to go north of the border to celebrate my own birthday. Also, it fell on a Sunday this year, making it easy to plan a weekend trip.

Quebec City is only a distance of 500 miles from Bergen County, New Jersey with the average car using about 40 gallons of gas, round trip. This translates into a cost of about $120 for fuel and an enjoyable 12-hour road trip. Dividing the trip into sections will make the time element easier to understand. It's 300 miles to the Canadian border; then 50 miles up to Montreal; then another 150 miles due east to Quebec City. Stopping at rest stops along the way to stretch your legs and just relax, will ensure that you are refreshed when you get to Quebec. If you are fortunate enough to have two or more drivers, there will be ample time for everyone to sleep along the way. But, I have driven the entire route solo many times and the half-hour rest stops work for me.

Meg and I chose to leave at 10 p.m. on Friday night, hoping to make Montreal by breakfast-time on Saturday morning. When we got to the New York State Thruway (Route 87 North) we set the car on cruise control at the posted speed. The next three hours went by quickly, as we bypassed Albany, NY and continued on Route 87, which is called the NORTHWAY when it separates from the Thruway. We stopped at the last rest area on the Thruway to use the facilities and buy some coffee. It was 2 a.m. when we started up the Northway.

The first thing you realize is that the road is very dark, with no streetlights. At this early hour, there is the threat of deer and other animals crossing in front of the car. A speed of 55 m.p.h. is prudent, to enable the driver to stop in time to prevent a collision. We passed by Saratoga Springs and continued through Adirondack State Park. Our next stop was at dawn, which in June occurs about 4 a.m. up north. The Schroon Lake rest area is an old friend--providing both bathroom facilities and vending machines. At this hour, a cold diet Coke was very refreshing, indeed. Back on the road, we noticed that we would need to refuel soon, so we targeted Plattsburgh, NY as the best place to get gas before entering Canada. Plattsburgh has a selection of gas stations and fast food opportunities. To avoid paying for higher-priced Canadian gas, we stopped at a station that displayed the sign "Last Gas before Canada." We would hit the border in another 15 minutes. By filling up with gas in Plattsburgh, we were assured of not having to refuel until we again reached the same station on our return home.

Crossing the border at Champlain, NY before 7 a.m. is a snap, as there are few cars arriving this early. Passports at the ready, it only took 5 minutes to clear customs and enter Canada. Route 87 in the U.S. blends seamlessly into Autoroute 15 in the province of Quebec. For the next hour, we passed tidy farms and signs indicating that fireworks were for sale. When the sky became a bit hazy and tinged with gray, we knew that we were minutes from Montreal. The traffic also became more congested, as secondary roads melded into our path and hastened us forward. The speed limit is 110 kilometers per hour, which equates to a speed of 70 m.p.h. As we approached the city of Montreal, we had to be quick to pick up the sign for Autoroute 30 East. Having missed the exit the first time, it took us an extra 10 minutes to circle around and find the correct route. But, to our relief, we bypassed the city and ran parallel to the St. Lawrence River for about 15 miles before picking up Autoroute 20 West: Quebec.

During the next three hours, the air was charged with anticipation of being in Quebec City by noon. The distance from Montreal is about 150 miles, so the next landmark was Trois-Rivieres, the mid-point of the last leg. The outline of the Pierre LaPorte Bridge becomes clear about 10 miles from Quebec; a sight that brought us great satisfaction, as we anticipated checking into our hotel right after crossing the bridge. We chose to stay at the Best Western L'Aristocrate, which is located in St. Foy, due-west of the city, which is very clean and costs only $135 US per night. Also, being on Chemin Saint-Louis, which runs directly into Quebec City, the hotel is just 5 minutes from the main attractions in the old city. The comparable cost of an in-city hotel, like the Chateau Frontenac, is about $350 US. Since we were staying only Saturday night, this is a cost-savings that gave us more bang for our tourist buck.

Paris on the St. Lawrence Quebec has often been referred to as the "Paris of America." The quaint architecture and cobblestone streets in Old Quebec do make you think of the City of Light, only in miniature. Quebec City is extremely walkable, which means no buses or Metros to waste time during a one-day visit. Finding parking for the car isn't that difficult. Quebec has many City-run parking garages within the walled city, as well as on-street meters that allow you to park for up to 3 hours. My best advice is to park the car once and just enjoy strolling through the city. One of the best known landmarks is the Chateau Frontenac hotel, which stands on a bluff overlooking the St. Lawrence River. By orienting yourself with the Frontenac, you will have no problem staying on course as you meander through the labyrinthine streets of Quebec. The Promenade that extends past the Frontenac allows for an incredible vista that will take your breath away; it is possible to see well beyond 30 miles to the east of the city.

The history of the struggle between the British and the original French settlers is documented by exhibits within the Chateau Frontenac. The original city was founded by Samuel de Champlain in 1608, with many early homes restored. Looking down from the Promenade, which extends from Dufferin Terrace to Battlefields National Park, the original settlements can be seen below the bluff, close to the shoreline of the St. Lawrence River. This historical area is named "Quartier Petit Champlain," and boasts many quaint shops and restaurants that hearken back to the ancient beginnings of Quebec. To get down from the cliffs, there is a funicular available; otherwise, there are numerous wooden staircases that lead down to the Quartier. It's easy to descend the stairs, but coming back up requires a lot of energy. At 50 cents a ride, the funicular is recommended. Local products on sale include furs and other clothing made by the indigenous inhabitants of Canada. There are also imports from France and Great Britain, which are sold at remarkable prices. It is possible to purchase English tableware and Royal Doulton figurines at a fraction of the price you would pay here in the United States. This part of Quebec City is a virtual shoppers' paradise.

French Cuisine at Fast Food Prices One of the most incredible features of Quebec are the many wonderful restaurants that are spaced throughout the city. Haut Cuisine is readily available at prices cheaper than a meal at the McDonald's on Grand Allée. Meg and I both had the Poussins aux Herbes de Provence (Cornish Hens) with fresh herbs and vegetables, which were scrumptious. I also ordered Confit d'Oie (Goose Confit) which was a bit greasy, but superb none the less. The bill, including drinks, ran us only $28 US for the two of us. We checked other places on our walking tour of Quebec, only to find similar prices throughout the city. We ate a late lunch, then went to another restaurant around 8 p.m., where we dined on fondue. The cost of this dinner, including a bottle of French Bordeaux, was only $45 US total. The food alone deserves a return trip. At midnight on June 24, Meg and I toasted my birthday at an outdoor bar on the Promenade. Through the night air came the unmistakable sound of Inca pipes and flutes. Imagine, an Ecuadorian band--in Quebec. This was such a spiritual rush, especially on the day of Inti Raymi! To quote Jake Barnes in The Sun Also Rises, you don't have to go to Ecuador, "You see all the South Americans here anyway." In my mind, I came full circle, celebrating all of the June 24 holidays in one day!

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Long Weekend in the Andes

Avenue of the Volcanoes

When it comes to kicking back and relaxing, there is no better place than the Andean Highlands of Ecuador. Only a three-hour drive from the coastal port of Guayaquil, Cuenca is a city of magnificent charm and cultural traditions that make "La Mitad del Mundo" such a touristic magnet. The coolness of the mountain climate contrasts with the high heat and humidity of the coast. Temperatures don't climb past the 70s during the day, but might plunge into the mid 30s at night. This is welcome relief for the traveler venturing up from the steamy beaches of the coast. There is always snow atop the highest peaks and volcanoes, which provide great subjects for shutterbugs and appeal to the nature lover inside us all. Only 3,000 miles due south of the New York/New Jersey region, Ecuador provides two destinations for the price of one: hot cities and beaches of "La Costa," and cold towns and bucolic splendor of "La Sierra." Even though Ecuador maintains Eastern Standard Time year-round, it is on the Pacific coast.

Ecuador uses the US dollar, so this is a plus when it comes time to negotiate prices. A four-day jaunt in the clouds of the Sierras is affordable due to low airfare. For example, the fare on Continental Airlines leaving Friday mid-morning from Newark Liberty International Airport to the seaport city of Guayaquil only costs $427 round trip. The plane makes one stop in Houston, Texas on the way. By arriving in Ecuador at 12:30 a.m., you beat the rush of travelers arriving during the daytime hours and can simply transfer by taxi to Guayaquil's midtown bus terminal (Terminal Terrestre) to catch an early morning direct coach to Cuenca (a four-hour bus ride) that will cost you $15 (USD). This will put you high atop the Andes by 8:00 a.m. Saturday at the latest. Before getting in the bus, try an old favorite drink of mine (available at the 24-hour snack bar). It's a blend of fresh bananas, a raw egg, sugar, malt, and dark beer (cerveza negra). This drink really settles you down for the bumpy ride up to Cuenca.

Cuenca lies atop la cordillera de Los Andes, sometimes called the altiplano or Andean Highlands. The first thing you will realize (in fact, you'll realize this half-way through the bus trip) is that the temperature is 35-40 degrees colder than in Guayaquil. You'll definitely need to pack a sweater to wear up in the mountains. Arriving on Saturday is great, because you can spend the whole day in Cuenca sightseeing and shopping in the many fine stores along the Tomebamba River. The Incan artifacts are relatively inexpensive, as are the woven blankets and sweaters that Ecuador is famous for worldwide. You will also find many Panama hat factories around the city. The name "Panama" is a misnomer, as these hats have traditionally been produced in Cuenca for over one hundred years. They are called Panama hats because workers arriving from the United States to build the Panama Canal first saw them there. Finely crafted and tightly-woven, the hats found in Cuenca are superior in quality to any found elsewhere on the globe.

You will also take note of the language of the indigenous population in the Sierras. The language, called Quechua, is the same idiom spoken by the Incas. The Ecuadorian Highlands has an agrarian economy, with many still working the terraced fields of their Incan ancestors. One point of interest is that there are over 100 varieties of potatoes in Ecuador, depending on the altitude that it's grown at. While the coast boasts a fine assortment of fruits and vegetables including banana, plantains, guava, mango, avocados, etc., the Highlands raise primarily tubers and other root plants. Corn is also plentiful, as the Incan diet and religion was dependent on maize production. Try a glass of traditional Chicha, or homemade corn beer, first made by the Incas. When you enter a restaurant in Cuenca, don't be surprised that instead of bread, the waiter brings you a basket of popcorn. Long a staple of Andean cuisine, the indigenous corn has larger kernels than we are familiar with in the U.S. Hearty soups are also widely made, and folks in the Andes love to add cooked corn kernels to their bowl, along with potatoes and cabbage. After a day of walking and sightseeing, such a soup really sticks to your ribs and will help fend off the evening chill.

As the sun sinks below the rim of the Andes, the bells of the cows and llamas in the far off fields can be heard, as the animals return home for the night. The shepherds play the traditional Incan flute, which makes a soulful sound as the light of day fades into the starry twilight. Because of the altitude, the stars actually look many times larger than back home. Fog descends into the valley, caused by the rapid drop in temperature. It seldom rains in Cuenca, but a fine mist should be expected as the fog blankets the town. The evening is the perfect time to visit a local tavern, where Scotch whiskey is served along with trago, a drink made from sugar cane that is similar to "white lightning" back in the states. Trago is served warm and should be sipped, as the alcohol is very potent and really sneaks up on you. Be cautious if the bartender asks if you would like to buy a bottle of imported Scotch at what seems to be a low price. Ecuador imports liquor by the barrel and some unethical bottlers either water the whiskey down or substitute domestic varieties and then slap an imported label on the bottle. Even though the bottle has an official-looking seal and tax stamp, it may not be the real stuff. Most taverns have live entertainment--lots of traditional Incan flutes and string instruments. So, even if the liquor isn't authentic, you will be transported to another level by the pentatonic scale of the Andean music. It will be easy to fall asleep after a night of such fine entertainment.

Sunday is the perfect day to travel to the Inca ruins of Ingapirca, a short taxi ride outside of Cuenca. Plan to get there in the early morning, as the ruins tend to be crowded in the afternoons. You can walk the same stones as the Incas did over 500 years ago. Faithfully restored, Ingapirca also has a fine museum of Incan antiquities. You will find that the docent speaks English well enough to answer most of your questions. Close your eyes and imagine yourself in the midst of such a historic landmark, literally on top of the world. Give yourself about 2-3 hours time at the ruins, then take the taxi to the nearby town of Azogues, where Sunday is bargain day--at the largest Incan market in Canar province. Don't be afraid to haggle over the prices of Incan textiles and other artifacts. The Indians love to hear compliments about their handiwork, and the price tends to go down the more you praise their work. As the afternoon progresses, you may need to stop at the food court, where you can find Andean cuisine at it's finest--cooked over a wood fire. The soups are particularly filling and tasty. You may even try a bite of barbecued guinea pig--a special treat in the Andes. If you're brave enough, ask for it well cooked, bien cocido. Nothing tastes better with this delicacy than a cold glass of Pilsener, the local Ecuadorian beer.

After an afternoon of shopping, it's back to Cuenca for another evening of entertainment. Monday comes all too soon, so retire early so that you can get the early bus back to Guayaquil. The buses start running at 2 a.m., so, depending on your returning flight back to Newark, it's always best to allow for an extra hour or so transit time. Buses often stop for breaks along the way, and it depends on the driver as to where and when. If you leave Cuenca at 3 a.m., you can make the bus terminal by 8 a.m., the latest. If your plane leaves late at night, you might be lucky enough to have a day in Guayaquil for sightseeing. Just ask a taxi driver to take you to Simon Bolivar International Airport, and you're on your way back home--refreshed, after a long weekend in the beautiful Andes.

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No Passport...No Problem!

San Juan, Puerto Rico...a "jonron!"
When planning a tropical trip, it's best to keep things as simple as possible. In light of the new passport requirement being imposed on foreign travel and the lengthy wait time involved in either getting a new or updated U.S. passport, staying within the United States is a matter of necessity for those without the official document. So, it's either Hawaii...or the 51st state; oh, I mean the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico. For those on the East Coast, it's an easy three- to four-hour plane ride south to San Juan. Again, the domestic fare works in favor of those travelers on a shoe-string budget. As of January 23, 2007, a passport is required for air travel between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda. As early as January 1, 2008, all persons traveling by land or sea (including ferries), may be required to present a valid passport or other documents as determined by the Department of Homeland Security. There are also obvious benefits for Puerto Rican travel: English is readily spoken and understood, even though most Puerto Ricans prefer to speak Spanish; the U.S. dollar is the official currency, making it muy suave to negotiate prices on the island; Puerto Ricans have assimilated the U.S. culture and customs.

At the time Meg and I were down there, I felt like I was at home; the atmosphere is amazingly like that of the tri-state area. In fact, most people watch the New York City broadcast channels to get their news. Just like being home, we watched all three of the major New York TV stations to keep in touch with NJ weather, etc. With this in mind, is it any wonder that Puerto Ricans are going loco for "Los Mets de Nueva York?" Carlos Beltran is on advertising posters, and the baseball aficionados who noted my Mets cap were eager to share their knowledge of the Mets. Sure, I did notice more Yankee caps being worn in San Juan, but there were quite a few Mets caps as well. In Sunday's El Nuevo Dia, a daily newspaper published in Spanish, there was an article on Carlos Beltran's great start to the 2007 season. I guess I never really considered that Puerto Rican papers have reporters covering the teams in New York. But, considering the huge P.R. community in the NY/NJ area, I now realize that there is a close kinship. I kept the newspaper article, as it's helping me to better understand baseball terminology converted to the Spanish language; like "jardinero central," for centerfielder, and "jonron," for home run. Carlos Beltran seems to be a favorite among Puerto Rican baseball fans. As a segue, the name of our bellhop at the hotel was Jose Reyes. But, he was quick to state that he's a proud Puerto Rican; he likes the way Jose of the Mets plays, but was also just as quick to mention that Dominicans are accepted, but not appreciated as much as "Boricua" players.

Take the bus, and save "mucho dinero."
When it comes to transportation, you can't beat the Autoridad Metropolitana de Autobuses, AMA. The bus is easily the most efficient and practical way to get around the greater San Juan area. For just 75 cents, you can ride an entire bus route. The only caveat is to remember to bring enough coins, as the buses are exact-change only and the driver can't accept paper currency. We took the B-21 bus to Old San Juan (going west) and also Plaza Las Americas (going east) from the Condado area. The buses run on a well-maintained schedule and are very clean. But, there are times when patrons must stand, as seating is limited. It is the custom for males to give up their seat to women, and even women stand up to make way for seniors and the handicapped. Since most people in Puerto Rico speak English, it is very easy to ask for directions or recommendations from fellow bus patrons. If you prefer to take a taxi cab, the fares are economical. We took a cab from the airport to the Marriott Resort on Ashford Avenue in Condado (a distance of 5 miles) and paid only 14 dollars. Compare this to the $1.50 fare (one transfer) that the bus will cost, and you can see why most natives prefer using the bus.

Resort vs. Hotel
When choosing lodging in San Juan, you must choose between the luxurious accommodations offered at a resort and the low cost of staying at a hotel. The resort offers more spacious guest rooms, with features such as a beachfront, pool, exercise room and spa. Also, for those who don't want to leave the complex at night, a resort offers in-house restaurants and entertainment. We stayed at a resort and don't regret it one bit. Sure, we could have saved half the daily room rate at a chain hotel (the Holiday Inn Express down the street is cheap, but very cramped), but to stretch out and enjoy the decadent care lavished on us at the Marriott resort was worth every penny. We also enjoyed the nightly buffet ($28) at La Vista restaurant, which provided a lavish array of typical Puerto Rican dishes such as Mofongo, as well as a diverse selection of seafood and prime rib. The local restaurants off-site were comparable in price, but the quality was not as high as the resort provided.

Make time for Shopping!
As always, Meg proved to be a shrewd shopper and mandated a trip to Plaza Las Americas. This shopping center, just a short bus ride from Condado, has everything...and more. It advertises itself as the largest shopping center in the Caribbean, and it's absolutely true! They even have a bowling alley and multi-plex cinema to boot! Living in New Jersey, close to the Paramus shopping meccas, I was astounded by the size of this San Juan mall. There is nothing in the NY/NJ area that compares with Plaza Las Americas. We spent the day there, and could have used an additional day to see all the stores. Besides shopping and entertainment, there are well over 20 fast food restaurants to choose from. And, best of all, the B-21 bus costs only 75 cents (one way).

Save a whole day for Old San Juan
Just three miles from our Condado resort, Old San Juan holds all the charm of a historic city and features a variety of shopping and entertainment. The waterfront area bustles with activity, even when there are no ships arriving. Puerto Ricans are lucky to have such a rich seafaring history. Major shipping companies have docks along San Juan Bay on one side of the island. The other side of the island offers excellent beachfront vistas along the Atlantic Ocean shoreline. Don't forget to visit Morro Castle, the most famous landmark in Puerto Rico; a place of historical import, where you will learn of the many nations that fought to gain this blessed "Isla del Encanto." After spending three days in San Juan, we vowed to return again for a longer stay!

Pollo Asado Relleno con Mofongo:
1 small chicken (roasted)
3 green plantains
1 teaspoon salt
4 cups water
3 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon olive oil
Optional: fried bacon, lard or vegetable oil

Peel plantains. Cut into one inch slices. Soak for 15 minutes in salt and water. Drain well. Heat fat or oil (350 degrees if you are using a deep fryer). Add plantain slices and fry for 15 minutes but do not brown. Drain on paper towel. Shred the chicken into small pieces. In a mortar (for pounding), crush garlic cloves and sprinkle with salt, add olive oil to the mixture and keep pounding. Crush a portion of the fried plantains slices and the chicken. Add some of the garlic and olive oil mixture and keep pounding. Spoon the mixture and shape into two inch balls. Place in oven pan and keep warm until you are ready to serve. Suggestions: Prepare chicken broth and pour over mofongo, so it will be juicy.

Buen Provecho!

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Alfred Voto - On the Road to El Dorado

After returning from our trip to Cancun in June, I made a quick journey to Cuenca, Ecuador, on August 4th to retrieve valuable manuscripts which I had stored some years ago in a safe deposit box. These pages, over 450 years old, were written by a Spanish priest who accompanied the expedition of the Conquistadores to South America. The priest was killed by Incan forces during a battle, but the manuscript fragments were saved and passed down to the family of Don Jose Vargas Quesada, to whom I am eternally indebted for gifting me these records. My trip to collect these papers was made urgent due to the impending eruption of the Sangay volcano, which could ultimately devastate the highlands surrounding Cuenca. Unfortunately, the fragments had partially decomposed due to water leakage and some are in tatters. I now have the project of translating the text and hopefully perpetuating the essence and spirit of these documents. Forget about the Disney film released last year, which incorrectly portrays the Inca city of El Dorado being attacked by Hernando Cortez. This would suggest a location in the Yucatan or Central America. EL DORADO is actually located somewhere in the jungles of Ecuador, east of the snow-capped Andes in the region that is referred to as the "Oriente." Far away from Quito, the northern kingdom of the Incas where he was born, Atahuallpa, the last Sapa Inca, was put to death in 1533 by Francisco Pizarro, the leader of the South American incursion of the Spanish Conquest. Legend states that Manco Inca, the last descendant of the royal Inca line, led his defeated people into the jungle and set up the stronghold of EL DORADO (The City of Gold) in a last-ditch attempt to restore the Inca empire. Because they understood the Spanish thirst for precious metals, the Incas secretly hid a cache of gold in the form of plates, vessels and other items used in the ritual worship of the Sun God, INTI. Gold was considered by the Incas to be the "Sweat of the Sun." These golden treasures were secluded from the Spanish and carried into exile by Manco and his followers after their expulsion from the Inca royal city of Cuzco and their homeland in the Andean Highlands. To this day, the Quechuan indians still await the restoration of their empire...and the return of VIRACOCHA, the mystical creator of culture in both Central and South America. It is not my attempt to uncover the actual location of EL DORADO. My journey is spiritual, as I seek to connect with the ancient wisdom passed down to the Incas from Viracocha and other demi-gods of Mezzo-America. This wisdom speaks of the incredible countdown to eternity evident in the Mayan calendar, whose last entry is 4 Ahau 3 Kankin, which translates to December 23, 2012: the last day of recorded time.

A COUNTRY GEOGRAPHICALLY AND CULTURALLY SPLIT
My exposure to the culture of the Incas started with my first trip to South America in 1976. Before this, my only knowledge of Inca civilization came from historical references to the Spanish Conquistadores. In particular, William H. Prescott's HISTORY OF THE CONQUEST OF PERU fueled my interest in studying the Inca culture. Witnessing firsthand the division of civilizations and societies in Ecuador, my attraction to the beauty and depth of Incan art, music and customs would ultimately exceed my interest in Spanish culture. TAHUANTINSUYU (The Four Quarters), is the Quechuan name by which the Inca empire is known. PERU is the general name given it by the Spanish. By the time the Spanish arrived, the empire had expanded outward from its capital at Cuzco, Peru to encompass the region stretching from Quito, Ecuador in the north to parts of Chile in the south. The entire Andean Highlands were connected by the INCA ROYAL ROAD that roughly corresponds with the present-day Pan American Highway. Like the Roman roads in Europe, the Incas built with stone and masonry that, in many places, is still intact. Ecuador is geographically divided in two. The COASTAL area from the Pacific Ocean to the base of the Andes is climatically hot and humid, with temperatures normally reaching 90 to 95 degrees by day with 100% humidity. The ANDEAN HIGHLANDS, commonly referred to as "La Sierra," encompass the highest peaks and valleys of the Andes, with temperatures reaching 60 to 70 degrees by day and plunging to the 40's and 30's (or lower) at night. Since EL ECUADOR (The Equator) runs across the country at Quito, the Sun rises around 6 AM and sets around 6 PM. Ecuador is also nicknamed LA MITAD DEL MUNDO (Middle of the Earth). Ecuador is also culturally divided in two. The coastal areas are controlled by Spanish culture and customs, while the highlands are strongly influenced by Inca culture. For example, driving up from Guayaquil, the major seaport on the coast, to TOMEBAMBA, the Quechuan name for the city of Cuenca in the highlands, the radio stations changed midway. The stations on the coast exclusively play a Salsa and Cumbia music format. In the highlands, soft flutes and Inca dance music called "San Juanito" after the feast of St. John the Baptist (June 24), indicate a very strong Indian influence. You enter a land of enchantment when you reach the top of the Andes. So, there are two Ecuadors to choose from. HOT or COLD, SPANISH or INCAN. I hasten to point out that the most respected universities are up in the sierras. This is only one reason why I choose the highlands. Another reason is that I detest the heat and humidity on the coast. But, there is something about the Inca culture that hooked me. It's very spiritual, with great respect shown for the rights of the individual. I look forward to the project ahead, as I decode the fragments from the 16th century.

FOOD FOR THE JOURNEY
Each time I return to Cuenca, Ecuador, I always stop by a restaurant I helped start in the spring of 1984 which I named SENOR QUESO (Mr. Cheese). Food has always been a passion of mine, so it was my hope to add a little bit of good Italian American cuisine to the already superb Andean diet. I bought a patch of land at the entrance to Cuenca on the Pan American Highway, right next to a successful ice cream establishment by the name of HELADOS PINGUINO. I liked the quaintness of the large statue of the penguin atop my neighbor's shop and hoped that it would auspiciously bless my business as well. My alternative would have been to locate Senor Queso down on the coast in the city of Milagro, where the acceptance of Pizza and other Italian food is profound. But, my heart belongs to the Andes. So even though I sold the business due to flagging sales, I still visit Helados Pinguino, and the taco stand that sits on the site of the now defunct SENOR QUESO. SENOR QUESO'S signature entree was a lasagna dish I created in honor of a past president of Ecuador by the name of Velasco Ibarra, who had the nickname "El Flaquito" (The skinny one) because he was as thin as a rail. The Andean diet is by and large vegetarian and low in fat, so I made my lasagna with compatible ingredients.

LASAGNA IBARRA:
16 ounces creamed COTTAGE CHEESE
8 ounces shredded MOZZARELLA CHEESE
32 ounce jar of SUN-DRIED TOMATO SAUCE
8 ounce package of frozen CHOPPED SPINACH
3 tablespoons of grated ROMANO CHEESE
16 ounce box of ribbed LASAGNA pasta
1 tablespoon of OREGANO

Boil the pasta according to the directions on the box. Coat a glass lasagna pan with a small quantity of the tomato sauce and set aside. In a medium saucepan, combine the cottage cheese, thawed (drained) spinach and Mozzarella cheese. Heat on low flame until it starts to simmer and remove from the stove. Drain the water from the pasta and pour a small quantity of cold water into the pot (this will assist in handling the lasagna noodles). Lay a row of pasta on the bottom of the baking pan and cover generously with the mixture of cheeses and spinach. Spread on some tomato sauce and sprinkle with Romano cheese and a pinch of Oregano. Lay a second row of pasta and repeat the previous step (save a small quantity of tomato sauce). Lay a top row of pasta and spread the remaining tomato sauce on top and sprinkle with Romano cheese. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and put in a slow oven for 30 minutes.

Buen Provecho!

NEXT INSTALLMENT: Avenue of the Volcanos - Into the heart of Ecuador
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Countdown to Eternity

WHERE IN THE WORLD?
Does it really matter, when the world clock is ticking down to a few precious moments? You might be in Casablanca, Paris, Tibet, Rome...or even at home. When the clock stops ticking, any place could be your last! Armed only with sunblocker and a keen sense of urgency, Meg and I flew off to the tropical Mayan Riviera to study firsthand the incredible countdown to eternity predicted by the indigenous inhabitants of Mezzo-America.We Arrived in Cancun the afternoon of June 23rd, the eve of Inti-Raymi, the Inca feast celebrating the re-birth of the Sun which happens to be my birthday as well. The trip was auspiciously scheduled to coincide with the magical mid-summer solstice. Although not directly related to my exhaustive research of the Inca civilization, the culture of the Mayans is truly fascinating. Immediately upon touch-down on the Cancun tarmac, I sensed that my research would bear much fruit and that Meg and I would gain access to some very profound answers to the eschatalogical enigma of the Mayan calendar. According to the "Popul Vuh," the sacred scriptures of the ancient Mayans, there will be a major world-wide catastrophe occurring on or about December 23, 2012. This translates to 4 Ahau 3 Kankin, the last entry recorded on the Mayan calendar; the day that time will end.

"WHEN THE WORLD STARTS RUNNING DOWN..."
No sense worrying about the inevitable, so relax and enjoy the ride! Cancun, Mexico is a veritable Paradise, encompassing all the pleasures of earthly life. You name it, Cancun has it. So, while I'm off doing some otherworldly research, Meg goes on an expedition of her own...to the best shopping in the New World. No wonder the conquistadors came to Mexico, there are so many shops with such incredible variety. Also, the food is very plentiful and, if you are staying at an "all-inclusive" resort, very reasonable indeed. We stayed at the ROYAL SOLARIS CARIBE, a rather eccentric combination of the two sides of Mexican life. One of the hotel towers is ultra modern, very noisy and full of activity, while the second tower is more tranquil and built on an older conception of Latin American architecture with graceful arches and winding outside corridors. We stayed in this gentler side of the ROYAL SOLARIS and had a wonderful time! Our suggestion is to take plenty of sunblock, especially in the summer. The Mexican sun is brutal and unforgiving, with little shade in Cancun to shield the skin from the frequent 10+ U.V. index days. I thought my dark, Mediterranean skin was immune from the harmful rays of the Sun, but even I fried to a deep lobster red in a matter of hours. Meg found a spray that Coppertone puts out that is very convenient and REALLY does the job, so she was spared the burn and ultimate peeling that I had to endure. "HEY AMIGO!"Being a shopping "aficionado," Meg gravitated to all the flea markets and malls. Even I had to admit that an afternoon at the mall is probably healthy after a hot morning on the beach, since there is ample air conditioning at KUKULCAN PLAZA and some other venues. The major caveat is simple: know the value of what you buy and don't be intimidated by the friendly salespeople. "Hey Amigo!" is the chant du jour at all Mexican stores. Sure they are happy to see you! But, be forewarned, don't think that their voracious smile means that you are among friends. Mexicans have rather large families and the need for money to fund them is understandable. The rule of thumb is this: whatever the salesperson wants for the item, offer them HALF (or less). Use a little common sense in dealing with these people. KNOW THE VALUE before you negotiate the price. Don't be surprised if you find the same item for some ridiculously low price at the airport shops on the way home. This is the subtle way the Mexicans make laughing stocks of Americans, by offering them the BEST price when it's too late. If you don't want to buy something, but want to be polite to the salesperson, tell them that you have one just like it at home. Also, feel free to use the following tip: When an overzealous salesperson confronts me, I turn the table on them by trying to sell THEM something. Just bring some sales material along, such as an insurance prospectus, and SELL, SELL, SELL! This will get rid of them in no time flat. Actually, the variety of wares available is quite extensive, so be prepared to find something that you want to buy...then negotiate like crazy to get the lowest price. Meg bought some kerchiefs that were finely made at a really good price. I found that most souvenir items were universally produced, which means that all they did was mark "Cancun" on the item. I had visions of going to the beach back home in New Jersey to find the same tee-shirt design on another individual who bought what he thought was a "Cape May" original. Wherever you go in Mexico, you will find Havana cigars. If you find this exotic and want to indulge in some forbidden smokes, just be aware of the fact that these cigars were probably made in Mexico by Cuban craftsmen. Since Cuba is just a short boat ride away from Cancun, you can find a wide assortment of Faux Havanas, as well as some genuine ones. Just beware that U.S. Customs will confiscate them from you if you try to "smuggle" them in. Yes, SMUGGLE. So, if you are a "Parrot Head," like myself, and think that it's really neat to sneak Havanas back home like Jimmy Buffett, just be aware that you are breaking the law! Unless you are a gifted songwriter or need some jail time, either smoke them in Mexico, or leave them there. Getting to wherever you're going is half the fun. The bus system in Cancun is really cheap and easy. Cheap, because it's a flat 5 peso fare from any place you get on. Easy, because Kukulcan Boulevard is the ONLY thoroughfare in Cancun, so you can't get lost unless you're a little "borracho" (drunk). Our suggestion is to get lots of 5 and 10 peso coins when you turn your greenbacks into Mexican money. The bus drivers are notorious for not caring to give change. So, unless you really want to practice your Spanish, just give the driver exact change. This will make the trip "muy suave," and will go a long way in maintaining world peace. The bus goes everywhere, so unless you want to "negotiate" a taxi, take the bus. Oh yes, the taxis are OK, too, but it's strongly advisable to agree on the fare with the taxi driver BEFORE getting into the cab. Otherwise, it might cost you a king's ransom to get out of the cab at your destination. Also, please be aware that everyone in Cancun is working some sort of "deal." So, for example, if you ask a taxi driver for a good restaurant, don't be surprised if he takes you to a place where he's getting a kickback. Our suggestion is to talk to other tourists like yourself and get first-hand recommendations. Most fellow travelers will be happy to provide honest and often candid evaluations.

"TAKE THE BEST FROM WHAT'S STILL AROUND"
In a couple of days, you will get your bearings in and around Cancun. By sampling the food and recreational activities, you will find your own water-level, so to speak. Meg and I went on a day trip to Cozumel during our stay in Cancun. We found out that everything is negotiable, but that doing a little research can save you a bundle of cash. For example, we wanted to visit the island of Cozumel without all the added frills like snorkeling or diving. The resident tour guide at the hotel was only too happy to book us for what he called "Cozumel Express," or only the cost of transportation. Not knowing that Cozumel is just a hop, skip and jump down the main coastal highway, we paid roughly $95 U.S. for the tour. Not that it wasn't a nice day out, but a round trip taxi ride to Playa Del Carmen and the ferry out to Cozumel would have cost only $70 U.S., a savings of what amounted to the bounteous lunch and shopping we did that day. Had we done more research, we would have also saved ourselves the long wait at the pier in Playa Del Carmen for the return ride on the scheduled tour van. By the way, it was reported by one tourist who took the snorkeling package that there is a lot of lag time involved in hooking up with this option. So, by the time the tour started snorkeling it was almost time to come back home. Again, "Caveat Emptor" with the tours. If possible, nail down the exact time duration of any activity you wish to participate in. This will eliminate a lot of disappointment.While we were in Cozumel, Meg and I had lunch in a delightful restaurant, "El Abuelo Gerardo," which translates into "My Grandfather Gerald's." located at 21 Tenth Avenue, just two or three blocks from the waterfront, it is just the place where we could get great Mexican food as well as pick up some folklore by chit-chatting with the Cozumel natives. Jorge, the head waiter, is fluent in English and able to translate any craving you might have into one of the delicious menu items. I wanted chicken tacitos and was not disappointed by the heaping plate served. The food is seasoned in what can only be described as Cuban-Mex, with the delicate taste of Old Havana mingled with the robust beans and rice, not to mention the ample supply of guacamole and chips served as the complimentary appetizer. Wash this down with a tankard of Mexican beer and you're in heaven. Meg and I ate to our hearts' content for under $20 U.S., with no room for one of the restaurant's delectable desserts. On the walls are old photos of Cozumel the way it was back a century ago. This was an education in itself, and you could almost envision Ernest Hemingway stopping at "El Abuelo Gerardo" for a cold beer after one of his famous fishing excursions off the coast of Cozumel. During our meal, two strolling guitarists stopped in and serenaded Meg with a liltingly romantic song, full of passion and sincerity. After all, the musicians of Cozumel inherited the traditions of the true Mariachis, so why should we expect anything but great impromptu music performed by masters of song. After lunch, I asked Jorge about the Mayan prophecies of doom and about their calendar. He offered to sell me a Mayan calendar, but didn't really seem concerned with the end of days. He did however tell me that folklore told of the destruction of Cozumel by a giant tidal wave which might come at any moment. So, this being told, I didn't press him about the Mayan story when his own was even more impending! All the more reason to grab for all the gusto you can today and not wait any longer to experience Paradise.

THIS WILL BE YOUR RUINATION: Trip to Chichen Itza
No vacation in Cancun is truly complete without going to the Mayan archeological sites at Chichen Itza. Sure, there are Mayan ruins right in the middle of Cancun, but they are a joke (literally). You wouldn't go anywhere but Rome to see the Vatican, so there is only one way to get a bonafide understanding of Mayan history, and that's to go to Chichen Itza. The day trip will set you back less than $100 U.S. and it's truly an amazing journey back in time. But, it's also a long bus trip into the desolate heart of the Yucatan. So, for those who distain a hot, steamy jungle climate and hours of walking around the site, it may be better to go on the less arduous trip to Tulum. Nevertheless, Chichen Itza is what I can best describe as the "Machu Picchu" of the Yucatan. What better place to research the end of the Mayan calendar. The tour of the ruins at Chichen Itza takes about two hours and the native Mayan guides are excellent. You will learn about the Spanish conquest of Mexico and the intellectually advanced civilization they tried to wipe off the face of the Earth. The ancient calendar and the complex numbering system that the Mayans worked with is truly awesome and incomprehensible. How is it that the indians of Mezzo-America were so far superior both scientifically and technologically to the European conquerers? This is a question for the ages and you won't find the answer at Chichen Itza, but you will receive a greater appreciation of Pre-Columbian civilizations! The Chichen Itza bookstore has some very interesting books that you can purchase and take home. I bought a copy of the sacred Mayan book, the "Popul Vuh," on a previous trip and it still intrigues me. I asked the Mayan guide about the end of days but, again, all he did was offer to sell me a copy of the calendar and lecture me about the Mayan creation myth. Then, like a bolt out of the blue, it hit me right between the eyes: The end will be the beginning...and the beginning will describe the end. All world scriptures state the same, don't they? Life is a cycle; and destruction will be followed by re-newed life. Anyone who's read the Judaic book of Ecclesiastes hears about this, as well as those who hold the Bhagavad Gita sacred. "There is nothing new under the Sun." Could it be that the Earth is entering another cycle of destruction, perhaps another "Ice Age?" But, this is a question for another day! After leaving Chichen Itza, we ate a late lunch and had a folkloric floor show at a Mayan restaurant. The food may not have been that authentic, but the singing and dancing were enjoyable and gave another glimpse into Mayan tradition. The bus ride back to Cancun was long, but the day was an overwhelming success!

NEXT INSTALLMENT: SWEAT OF THE SUN - Traveling the Inca road in Ecuador in search of EL DORADO!

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Writer's Block? What, are you kidding?

After seven cups of coffee on the seventh day of the month, the day seems more manageable. I let an eclectic mix of music drift into my subconscious mind, bringing me back to the 1960s. Armed with my ipod and infused with caffeine, I'm now able to tackle any project. Anything, that is, except writer's block. Of course, there are days when I'm able to get totally into flow, writing non-stop for up to eight hours, creating lucid, free-flowing prose. Today is going to be difficult, as the caffeine rush is rapidly dissolving along with the tie-dye haze of one-hit wonder groups.

Enough! The 1960s weren't really a time of production for me; better the music of the 70s and 80s, with pounding, hypnotic beats that launch my being into the ether of an altered state of perception. OK, let's try my old standby: Betty Davis Eyes. The beginning chords, repeated multiple times, just mesmerize my psyche, pulling me back to the boardwalk at Wildwood, NJ on a warm July evening. The flashing lights flood my third eye and unleash the bard within. I wonder how Shakespeare got into flow? Back, before the days of stereo headsets. . . . and Enya!